Tennis, trofie and tailors

It's 4.30pm on a Friday afternoon in Leeds.

Blue sky, twenty seven degrees, and a white-wine and Peroni soaked crowd of suits, are wallowing on the sun-drenched pavement outside the Bar & Grill.

Now is the time of the year to kick back and suck the marrow out of every bone Mother Nature throws at us.

Earlier this month, I decided to take a cheeky day off, and my wife and I headed down to Wimbledon for the tennis.

With yet another glorious day on the cards, and wanting to look the part, my first port of call was to my favourite hatters Lock and Co on St James's street, to treat myself to a Panama hat.

Armed with my new head candy, we jumped on a bus and crawled along the streets of gold to the grass lawns of the All-England club.

To be honest, tennis isn't really my game. The highlight for me was the nimble footed lineswoman who, a dead ringer for Miss Marple, was a magnet for an extremely powerful Russian's serve.

Watching the old dear, busting shapes to avoid getting clattered by a tennis ball, reduced me to a giggling wreck.

After three hours of play, I'd had enough. My long-suffering wife, Nikki, agreed we could up sticks and head to Mayfair, where there just happened to be a couple of tailors I wanted to visit...

First stop was Spencer Hart's new flagship store on Brook Street. Here I am with Moaz, one of their Sales Associates.



He's the one in the black suit. Not the Michael Winner look-a-like showing more chest hair than Simon Cowell.

Ten years ago, I visited their shop on Savile Row and met Nick Hart, the founder.

For someone just starting out in the trade, it was pretty inspirational stuff. Dark wood, soft jazz music, razor sharp threads on the wall. The place had soul, a real edge to it.

Since then, they've gone from strength to strength, building their brand and launching successful ready-to-wear and made-to-measure collections. They now have a truly international presence, dressing numerous high-profile celebrities.

In a past life, the new shop was a bank, and Moaz was kind enough to let me check out "The Vault," their underground, luxury personal shopping suite.

Whilst upstairs is "L.A" bright and beautiful, the darker side of Spencer Hart was once again revealed.

Very much a Bond villains lair, you'd be very happy to chill on the leather banquet and select a vintage Rolex, or, commission a bespoke pair of velvet slippers.



Next on the radar was Thom Sweeney.

Based on Weighhouse Street, these guys are currently making a real name for themselves and deservedly so.

The two founders, Thom Widdett and Luke Sweeney, used to work for Timothy Everest before sailing off on their own ship.

I met with Thom and Matthew Gonzales, one of his junior cutters, on a recent trip overseas and it was clear to me then that these guys have style and ambition in abundance.

Their signature dish is the "Horse-shoe" vest, served with a side order of old-school glamour. They've also recently launched a ready-to-wear line and I have no doubt we'll be hearing much more from them in the near future.

Matthew was in their basement workrooms when I arrived and gave me the grand tour. Their shop was fabulous. It oozed with charm and character and like the chaps themselves, impeccably attired.

Judging by the pile of re-cuts he had to do, business is brisk for them at the moment!

After that, it was time for cocktails.

Heading down Bond Street towards Soho, we passed Sotheby's, the auction house. Directly outside was a crowd of photographers and a sign in the window: "Impressionist & Modern Art Evening Sale."

One of my customers, Paddy, works for them at a senior level and so, seizing the day, I wandered across to the doorman (dressed in full morning suit and top hat) and enquired as to whether he was in attendance.

He popped inside to find out. Moments later, a frightfully British chap, who introduced himself as Harry, bustled through the door. We were greeted like long lost friends and swept inside.

After eight years in tailoring I can spot a five grand suit at twenty paces and this place was rammed to the gills with them.

The rarefied atmosphere buzzed with expectation. The art-strewn walls, a shimmering backdrop, to this cultured oasis for the wealthy, privileged, and beautiful.

It turned out Paddy had just left, but Harry ushered us into the sale room and proceeded to give us the lowdown on paintings by Monet, Picasso, Renoir and Mondrian.

The collection raised just over one hundred and twenty million pounds. Not a bad little earner for a Monday night's work.

I later found out that Harry was in fact, Lord Harry Dalmeny, Deputy Chairman of Sotheby's. It's not often I'm given a private tour of art-work by a member of the peerage. Surreal.

We were 'papped' as we left the building (hilarious) and the best was yet to come. Dinner at Bocca Di Lupo.

If there are three words you must remember from this post, these are it. Utterly, totally and unequivocally the best Italian food I have eaten in this country.

The courgette flowers filled with mozzarella and anchovy were boules of joy. The roast suckling pig with grapes, white wine and bay, so unctuously magnificent, I felt bereaved when it came to an end.

London really is, a truly special place. Wonderful things can, and will happen for you there, if you have the desire to seek them out.

Fine threads, good food and a smidge of culture are always on my hit list, and as usual our wonderful capital city delivered.

The Apprentice

On Friday the 13th of this month at 5pm, Michelsberg Tailoring popped open a bottle of Veuve Clicquot and raised a glass to its first employee, Charlie Anderson.

Eight years ago, the business was born on my kitchen table, and now, after three years in the Victoria Quarter, I feel ready to take on an apprentice.

Here he is, signing his employment contract.



Currently a salesman at Jeffery West shoes, he first impressed me when I urgently needed a pair of dress shoes for a black-tie event.

They didn't have my size in the Leeds store, so he hunted a pair down on the phone, arranged for them to be couriered up from London (the same day), and was on my doorstep first thing the next morning, waiting for me to try them on.

To me, service is everything and here was someone practising what I preach.

Charlie got his sale, Jeffery West made a few quid, and my new patent-leather Jeffries got to dominate the dance-floor of the Hunt Ball that evening.

Here is a picture of me on the night with my good friend Toby, wearing his new Michelsberg midnight blue mohair tuxedo with velvet shawl collar, and my beautiful wife, Nikki :-)



Charlie starts on Monday the 8th September and it's a big step for us both.

Once under the Michelsberg wing, he is going to learn what I passionately believe is the greatest job on earth - running a bespoke tailoring business.

He's ambitious, bright, has some 'fire in the belly' and loves clothes. My gut feeling is that here is a young man who wants to be one of life's winners and I'm going to do everything I can to help him achieve his goals.

As far as my business goes, I genuinely feel like I'm just getting started. I've got a good base to build from and have a dream of how I want things to look in the future.

To achieve that I need to find the right people whom I can trust.

Whilst I'm not afraid of taking risks, it's my family name above the door, and with that comes a responsibility to maintain what I hope is a spotless reputation.

In Charlie I am confident I have found someone with broad enough shoulders to carry such a mighty burden!

I will be hosting a customer party shortly after he starts in the hope you will find the time to help me welcome the new kid into our gang.

For Charlie and I, a new chapter begins and it's going to be a Brave New World for us both. Success can never be guaranteed but failure is not an option.

You've gotta pick a pocket or two boys

As a tailor, I get a real kick out of making something for a special occasion.

A wedding, or, red-carpet movie premiere is a huge deal and so the pressure of delivering something perfect, on time, is palpable.

A sharply cut suit can make you feel taller, sexier, powerful and more confident. Providing the armour to help my customer 'own it' at that key moment in their life is a very rewarding experience.

Whilst it's great to do those 'one-offs,' clothes are a basic part of our lives and should be used to make it easier, both at work and play.

In short, they need to be functional, as well as look good.

It is my dream that every man will treat his 'Michelsberg' with the utmost care and respect. After a day turning heads, it should be lovingly brushed by hand, the coat placed on a broad wooden hangar and the trousers put to bed in a warm, top-of-the range, trouser press.

The cruel hard truth is that more often than not, they are used and abused, chucked about, soaked in rain (and wine) and battered by the rigours of a working life.

Living in airports and hotel rooms for days on end, or, charging down to London and back with a lap-top bag over the shoulder, can really take its toll on a man's threads.

Selection of cloth is critical. The fabric needs to be durable and shed creases easily. Whilst a heavier weight of fabric (11 ounces and above) will undoubtedly perform better, the downside is that it will feel hotter to wear. Not so good if you are in Dubai, it's 80% humidity and you've run out of Right Guard.

I find that lighter weight wool / mohair blends work well in hot climates, as mohair is a durable, stiffer fibre with great insulating properties.

It feels quite hard and springy to the touch, and so bounces back when crumpled-up, and usually has a more open weave which allows heat and moisture to escape more easily.

Mohair does have a wonderful sheen, or 'lustre' to it, but some of my customers like a more matt finish. In this case, a lightweight wool cloth woven using a highly twisted worsted yarn will also have bounce and perform just as well.

The next thing to discuss when creating a 'work horse' is the saddle-bags, or, dreaded P word. Pockets.

Not the ones on the outside of the coat. Far from it. They are a tailors friend. Pleasing to the eye, they can make a wonderful design feature, and provide an attractive break in the cloth without ruining the line, particularly useful if a customer is very tall.

I believe that slanted pockets make you look slimmer, and the addition of a 'ticket-pocket' (the smaller extra one above the side pocket on the right-hand-side) narrows the waistline, as it draws the eye to the slimmest part of a chaps body.



The 'out-breast-welt' (the one on the left-hand-side of your chest) is more that just a place to pop your Bond-like hanky. Slightly angled, it helps to create that sought after 'V' line to the body and visually adds width across the chest.

Outside pockets are a thing of beauty, the golden child to the black sheep of the family that lurks beneath - the inside pockets.

Throughout the fitting stage on a new suit, we go to great lengths to achieve a sinewy silhouette with the correct 'balance.' I find nothing more pleasing than a coat that hugs the body, and when unbuttoned, hangs perfectly level, yet still retains it's shape.

So, when a bulging wallet, smartphone, or diary, is added to the mix, it makes the tailoring gods weep.

Yes, I can feel their tears raining down upon me as coins, pens, sunglasses, crumpled tissues and fag packets find accommodation in the house of beauty that is a Bespoke Suit.

At work, I use a briefcase for my stuff. At play, it all goes in my wife's bag (with her carrying it I should hasten to add!). But that's just me and my slightly OCD tendencies.

Most of my customers insist on having inside pockets, and so I'll dig deep, re-enforce them and do the forward fitting with their clobber inside. This means that when the coat is finished and the button fastened, it won't feel too tight.

Tailoring a coat around the tools of a man's trade is fair enough, but even I was gobsmacked when I was asked to accommodate a kevlar body vest for a security professional. No curved lines with that one.

The only inside pockets that bring a smile to my face are "secret" pockets. Hidden away, perhaps in a jacket lining, they are the perfect place to sneak one's 'stash.'



Whilst a safe-haven for a bag of weed, or, packet of Mr Blobbies might be useful to some, here at Michelsberg Tailoring we naturally frown upon drug-taking and sexual frivolity at any level.

In all seriousness, a hidden cash-pocket in the waistband of the trousers can be invaluable at the races. A day of high jinx, based on alcohol consumption and hard-currency, is a pick-pockets wet dream, so hiding your queens-folding down the front of your strides makes it harder for them. Ahem..



'Hare' pockets are also quite popular amongst my customers. A poachers delight, they usually feature in shooting suits, have a water-proof lining and provide a temporary home for a bunny who gets on the wrong side of a 12 bore shotgun.

I mainly use them in overcoats and tweed jackets, as the weight of the cloth (and construction beneath) will support what is a perfect place to pop a scarf, newspaper, or, hip flask.



Yes, every customer has their foibles. Some are dandies, with jackets made-up in luxurious fabrics, fitted to within an inch of their life.

Others, who sit at a desk all day, consider a bespoke suit their overalls, and want something made of tougher stuff, fitted on the looser side.

In a perfect world, none of us would have to work. We'd surf in the morning, be dressed by our valets in a Super 150's Escorial Suit, have lunch with friends and then retire to the yacht, fire up the jacuzzi and settle down for a gentle evening under the stars.

For most of us, we are out there earning a crust, and as such, not all our suits can be stallions.

A good old cart-horse might not be built for speed but will happily plod away for years, with enough room on board for the metaphoric kitchen sink.

Every Cloud...

"Beauty is only skin deep, it's what's underneath that counts."

Wise words, particularly when it comes to bespoke suits. A beautiful cloth on the surface is nothing without quality scaffolding underneath.

I've mentioned in a previous blog about the construction of our suits, both the "British Bespoke" (half canvas) and "Uber-Level" (full canvas).



They incorporate a number of layers, or, interlinings, (body canvas, chest canvas, domette, fusing) which are sewn together by hand, or, machined, to give the cloth shape and create a soft armour with which to flatter the wearer's body.

The final layer is, of course, the lining and it is here that a garment can be "made or broken".

A beautifully cut, three piece suit, made-up in a stunning Escorial cloth from John Fosters, will be destroyed in a flash, by pairing it with a lining that is the visual manifestation of dropping an acid tab in Lady Gaga's wardrobe.

Whilst having a suit made should be fun, getting it right is a serious business.

Many a chap in the wicked world of work often feels the need to conform. Subtle navy blue, or, charcoal grey cloths, in classic understated designs are often de rigueur.

The lining, however, is a wonderful way to express oneself, and the choice is extensive.

My bunches contain pretty much every pantone available, and as well as plains and two tones, I have a range of designs including skull & crossbones, paisleys, stripes, flowers, "make love not war" slogans and even naughty ladies (remember Sam Fox?) bearing their charms.



My own opinion is that whilst it might be tempting to go absolutely mental, a little restraint will keep you on the right side of elegant, rather than come across as tacky, vulgar, or, brash.

A safe option is to go for the same tone as the cloth, but in a lighter shade. It tends to 'lift' the ensemble and reduces the risk of any clash with shirts and ties in contrasting colours.

This is particularly apparent if the suit includes a vest, the back of which is on full display when the coat comes off.

A silver lining with a grey cloth works rather well, as does a metallic blue lining with navy.



If it's a contrasting colour to the cloth you're looking for, then a deep burgundy, British racing green, or, navy blue lining will add an understated and refined air to the proceedings. These are particularly popular amongst my customers who adopt a "less is more" attitude to their dress.

Whilst I salute this school of thought, a touch of swagger and turning heads is what Michelsberg Tailoring is about.

I love to use a pillar-box red lining against a charcoal grey or black cloth. It's dark, dashing, with a sniff of Count Dracula about it.



Blue fabrics look fabulous with a flamboyant gold lining and pink is another firm favourite - it's cheerful, a little eccentric yet still sophisticated.



Whatever the choice, I insist on only using the best. It's a firm no to synthetic linings made from man made fibres, like polyester and nylon, and a big yes to Cupro Bemberg.

"Bemberg" is the registered trade name for Cupro Rayon, made by Asahi Kasei in Japan. It's derived from natural fibres (the linters of the cotton plant) and ticks all the boxes in terms of breathability, performance and the environment.

Some tailors will fight the corner for using silk linings. I've visited various tailoring forums and the consensus is that whilst silk has a certain mystique, Bemberg outperforms silk in terms of breathability (it has a higher water absorption rate than silk), durability and still looks fantastic.

Other important things to bear in mind when choosing your lining are the weight and weave of the cloth.

A lightweight (8oz / 220-240gm) cloth demands a lightweight lining. If it's too heavy, there is a real danger it will 'drag' on the cloth when made-up, resulting in unsightly bulges and ripples.

As far as weave goes, certain travel cloths, particularly those blended with Summer Kid Mohair, tend to have a more open weave. This is great when it comes to breathability but there is a danger a cream / white, or, vividly coloured lining will show through (particularly on the sleeves).

Picking out a lining can often take as long as choosing the cloth.

If it's a wedding suit, finding something that pleases the groom AND goes with the colour scheme of the day, is not always easy.

A betrothed couple recently came to see me. The bride-to-be wanted Dusky Pink and her beau wanted Easyjet Orange. Neither would back down. Heels dug in, eyes flashed, arms were folded and the dreaded "darling" word came into play.

Result - a Mexican stand off.



It took all my powers of diplomacy to defuse the situation and luckily I came up with a "win / win" option. Should my business ever go to the wall, a career as a marriage guidance councillor is possibly an option.

When all's said an done, the beauty of having a suit made is that ultimately you get what you want.

I've given my two pennies worth, but when it comes to what lies beneath a jacket, one man's orange in another man's purple.

"Less is more" and "dapper and dashing" are all very well, but if Sam Fox's nipple is what you want close to your heart, then fill your boots.

The Emperor's New Clothes

Even as a child, I loved getting new clothes.

The joy of wearing my first Nike t-shirt and trainers on a geography field trip to Skipton, is still tucked away in the little grey cells.

As is busting shapes on the dance-floor at 'Mr Craig's' nightclub in Bradford, resplendent in blue blazer, chinos, and brown suede shoes.

Memories of the happiest moments of my life are intrinsically linked to the clothes I was wearing on my back.

Having just turned forty one, I sit back misty-eyed and remember getting smashed at a college ball in London, feeling very much the dandy in a white tuxedo and black silk cummerbund from Austin Reed.

Whilst my capacity to bounce back from alcohol abuse has since diminished, the rush I get from slipping new clobber on my back has not.

When it comes to fine threads, the law of diminishing returns does not apply.

Under the poor excuse of needing new imagery for my website, I've just taken delivery of three new additions to the Michelsberg Wardrobe.

The first is this purple velvet jacket.



You should have seen my face as I popped it on for the first time at the coat-makers. One of the grey haired machinists had observed my reaction and turned to her colleague and said "ah, bless."

It strikes at the very heart of what Michelsberg Tailoring is all about. Glamour. Self indulgence. Sophisticated revelry.

It's a nod to the King of peak lapels that is Tom Ford, whom I consider to be one of the best dressed men on the planet.

A jacket like this was born for good times ahead. Champagne, silk dresses, white Alba truffle. A black tie ball. Day break on the streets of Rome. Laughter.

Slipping on a new bespoke coat for the first time is one of life's great pleasures.

A customer recently asked me, "what's the favourite part of your job?" and without hesitation I replied, "delivering the finished garment"

Having a suit made is an experience. It's a true journey and requires a leap of faith based on a figment of the imagination.

An idea born over a cup of tea, or glass of whiskey, evolves across several fittings into what is known in the trade as 'a finisher.'

This is the moment of truth. Like a matador brandishing his cape, the garment is wielded onto the customer's back with a flourish.

My heart thumps, snakes swirl in the stomach, eyes dart across the surface of the cloth, hunting for tailoring gremlins.

And then, the customer grins.

It's a bit like the moment in Frankenstein when the professor cry's out to the heavens, "She's Alive! Alive!!

We've nailed it. I'll often feel a tingle down my spine, as waves of adrenalin carry mixed emotions of elation and relief.

My customer is thrilled and that's what it's all about. A shared moment of delight. Back of the net!

But it's the initial meeting that lays the foundations for a successful outcome.

Every customer that comes through my door has their own ideas and sense of style. It's very much a learning process for us both as we sit down and let the creative juices flow in search of a shared vision.

Over the last eight years, I've made getting on for two thousand garments, and it's been new ideas from my customers that have kept things fresh and shaped my own personal style.

The inspiration for a new set of threads comes from many places. Attending a menswear show like Pitti Uomo, watching an old black and white movie like 'Kind Hearts and Coronets', a stroll down Savile Row.

It was the image below of the cutter Jo Morgan in the book "Bespoke. The Men's Style of Savile Row," that got my second treat to myself up and running.



Check out the lapel. Stunning. It's got attitude, a real sense of swagger but still manages to maintain an air of respectability and suaveness about it.

Here's what I came up with.



I've kept the bowed peak lapels (also currently embraced by Vivienne Westwood - another designer I greatly admire) but added a velvet top-collar and gone for slanted pockets.

The cloth's from Dugdale Brothers of Huddersfield and it's getting worn for this first time tomorrow morning - a great way to start off the week :-)

And last but not least is this little fella.



I've been scrawling it down (badly) on paper since a wee lad.

The cloth is a wonderful chalk-stripe flannel from Biella and there's a military vibe about it. It's been applauded and derided in equal measure.

But I love it and that's all that's important.

These clothes have been built for fun. My hope is that one day, I will be able look back through rheumy and even mistier eyes and know I've done them justice.

Let the good times roll.

Dining with Giants

On Wednesday 12th February at 6.30pm, I was formally announced into the inner sanctum of the Merchant Taylors Hall in the City of London.

Based at Number 30 Threadneedle Street, this has been home to The Livery Company of The Worshipful Company of Merchant Taylors’ since 1343, and tonight was their annual Benevolent Association Dinner.

As far as events go in the world of fine threads, this is the 'Big Kahuna', the 'Bomb-Diggy.' I'd kindly been invited by the cloth company Scabal to join their table.

With adrenalin and champagne surging through my veins, I stepped into a stunning oak-panelled room to be greeted by the great and the good of British textiles and tailoring. Weaving my way through some of the sharpest suits on the planet, I hooked up with my hosts.

Introducing Robert Oakes, roving ambassador of the North for Scabal, and the lovely Hazel Edmonds, who runs the office at their flagship store on Savile Row.



When it comes to service, these guys set the bar. Efficient, warm, and a genuine pleasure to deal with, they are a credit to what is arguably the most forward thinking and commercially minded cloth business in the world.

It was also great to meet and spend some time with their retail sales manager, Ricky Sahota.



No stranger to the joys of wielding a tape-measure, he, like myself, is on the sharp-end of things, and handles the made-to-measure side of the business.

Over a fabulous dinner, we traded war-stories, drank white wine, red wine, port, and commiserated on his 6.30am flight to their head office in Brussels the next morning. Ouch.

Seated next to me was Terry Brown, a former President of the Merchant Taylors Company.



With more than forty years service to Scabal, his loyalty is matched with a reputation for kindness and fair play.

One of the most well connected chaps on the Row, his tales of life in the rag-trade and on the 'Golden Mile' were an utter delight.

After dinner, our speaker was Nigel from "The Apprentice."



After that, it was time for a stiff drink at the bar and it was here that the party really got started.

Here I am with Paul from Huntsman, and Leon, bespoke trouser cutter at Anderson & Sheppard.



At the start of the evening, things were a little bit starchy and stilted. Hushed tones, polished shoes, an overriding sense of decorum.

Then in walks Paul in his white and pink John Travolta special. The room cheered, shoulders dropped and everyone eased-up. The world needs more people like Paul.



Here's Robert having a quaff with Emma Martin, coat-maker for Dege and Skinner. BBC's Young Tailor of the Year for 2012, she bubbled with enthusiasm for her trade.

That evening, positivity ruled the roost. It was wonderful to see the place crammed to the rafters with young, ambitious tailors. The future of British Tailoring is bright. And it likes a drink.

I crashed at 3am. Two Nurofen, a glass of water and four hours sleep later, my pink, bleary eyes cracked open to face another day. I wandered down to the river from my hotel in Monument and was faced with this.



London rocks. I jumped into a cab and headed to my spiritual home (after Croyde Bay in Devon), Savile Row. First stop was Number 13, Stowers Bespoke. Ray Stowers was on my table the previous night and had invited me to pop into his shop.





A relatively new addition to the Row, prior to this, they had offered their bespoke service via a concession at Liberty on Regent Street.

They are a young team, were great fun on the night and had also consumed their fair share of pain killers that morning.

Next up was one of my firm favourites, Chittleborough & Morgan, and a meeting with the living legend that is Joe Morgan.



Joe, along with Edward Sexton, were the talented hands behind the stunning suits of Tommy Nutter.

"Nutters" was the place to go in the seventies. They dressed all the big names (Elton, Jagger, The Beatles) and my very next suit (almost finished!) is a nod to their stunning work of days gone by.

I particularly liked this little number in their showroom.



Then it was next door to Number 12, Scabal, to check out their newly refurbished showroom.





Not bad eh? No wonder they have to charge such high prices for their schmutter! :-)

Here's Andrew Goldberg, their National Sales Manager. Softly spoken, a true gent, he's mad about cloth and used to run the Leeds operation of Gieves and Hawkes.



By now I was flagging. The hangover was winning the battle with Reckitt Benckiser's little helpers. I needed sustenance and fast.

So, off to Soho to meet my friend Flynny for lunch, but not before popping in to say hello to my 'old friend' Mark Powell, who I've mentioned recently in a previous blog.



The food at Yauatcha on Broadwick street was fabulous. Try their tea-smoked ribs. Incredible. And then it was off to Kings Cross and back to Yorkshire where all the civilised people live :-)

As my train left the thumping, pupping heart of Mother England, I had once again been inspired by a city that makes me want to do more and be better.

When it comes to threads, London is 'The Show' and I will not rest until 'Michelsberg' gets a place in the limelight.

Growing too quickly

On Monday January 6th, the scales confirmed I'd had an exceedingly good Christmas.

Half a stone above fighting weight but oh, so worth it. For two glorious weeks, the Michelsberg log fire had crackled along to the bubble of my gastric juices.

Every single calorie had been savoured with relish. The sweet, aromatic taste of amber single malt, dripping from my tongue like honey.

Now it's back to miso soup for lunch, and judging by the first fittings on two new suits for myself this week, not a moment too soon.

Just before 'breaking up' for the festive liver bashing, I'd stood shoulder to shoulder with my cutter Rod, as he produced the paper patterns for my latest creations.



These were then placed on the cloth with the utmost care and chalked round ready to be cut out.

As usual, I was left pink cheeked and spell-bound at the level of skill involved in the process. Attention to detail is incredible and everything is considered, even down to making sure the pleats on the trousers fall between two stripes, and not on top of one.



In days gone by, the cutter would produce a customer's paper pattern and then this would be handed down to his assistant, or, "Striker."

His job would be to lay it out on the cloth, make (add) allowances for seams and the inlays (extra cloth), cut it out and finally hand over the bits and bobs to the coat-maker, who would sew it all together to form the first 'baste' or fitting.

Introducing Rod's Striker for a day - me.



Cutting round a chalk line with a pair of heavy shears isn't easy. I somehow managed to do it without incident and a week later the first fitting was ready.



First of all, the two sides of the coat (or 'fronts') were wrapped around me until just snug, and then secured in place with a pin. The amount of material that crosses over each other is known as the 'over-rap' and this is indicated by a chalk mark, as can be seen in the fitting below.



If it's perfect, the distance from the chalk mark to the front edge will be one and a quarter inches. Mine was only a quarter of an inch, so back to those 'inlays' I mentioned earlier.

The Savile Row Bespoke Association dictates that for a garment to be truly bespoke, it must have a set of "inlays to allow adjustment to the main body seams."

This is basically extra cloth that can be let out if a customer has had more than his fair share of chip butties.

In my case I would need the coat to be let out half an inch on each side seam. Ever the optimist, I decided to leave it and try and get off the excess timber before my forward fitting in three weeks time.

Whilst it is more common to pin away excess cloth at a first fitting, we do have decent inlays in place allowing for shoddy measuring (who me? never!) or too many pies.

In the first fitting of a coat, there is extra material down the centre back seam (3/4'), side seams (3/4'), shoulders (1/2'), fronts(3/4') and sleeves (3/4').

Some of these (such as the inlays in the shoulders) are for issues to do with 'balance.' The others are basically a safety net in case you've put on a couple of inches since being measured.

Most of the inlays are cut off during the fitting process, but the good news is that the inlays on the side seams remain in the finished garment.

This means that for those gentlemen such as myself who are happy to age graciously, there is always a little room in a bespoke suit for expansion ;-)

I'm chuffed to report that despite the thin gruel for lunch, my first month back has been great. Whilst the papers have been making positive noises about the economy for months, the vibe I'm now getting from my customers (in recruitment, property, finance, professional services) is incredibly positive :-)

So here's to 2014. Balls to austerity, remember those inlays and bring on the long lunch at Sous Le Nez and San Carlo. Good health!