A ten inch rise

There aren't many professions where you inform a customer that you're going to give him a ten inch rise in his trousers.

The 'rise' in the world of tailoring is the difference between the outside and inside leg measurements. In simple terms it's roughly the distance between the top of the waistband and the bottom of the fly.

At Michelsberg Tailoring, there are two cardinal sins when it comes to making a pair of strides. A baggy arse (or 'seat') and a floppy crotch (or, to give it its proper name if you're a chap, a 'fork'). Too much rise and a pair of pants can resemble a wet, saggy nappy. Not a good look.

That said, too little rise, particularly on a man with a large seat, and you're on dangerous ground. Nobody wants to see someone prancing about in a pair of nut-huggers with his proverbial balloon knot on display.

A pair of trousers should look 'neat' and above all feel comfortable to wear.

There's a real sixties vibe going on at the moment and most of the trousers I'm making are very fitted, to be worn low on the hips, with narrow bottoms. This style calls for a shorter rise with many a pair resembling those in the picture below.



If you've got thin legs and a relatively slim build then these can look very flattering. Not so, if you're a prop forward with a fifty inch chest with thighs like filing cabinets.

Getting a pair of trousers right requires a good understanding of proportion and getting to grips with what a customer wants and is willing to put up with.

Oscar Wilde said, "Clothes should hang from the shoulder, not the waist." I'm pretty sure he was talking about trousers and the debate surrounding belts versus braces.

As a schoolboy, I adored the film "Wall Street" and was so impressed by Michael Douglas's braces that I invested in a pair of my own.



Here I am at a ball in Harrogate, with ex Bradford Grammar School boys Messrs Brunning, Brayshaw and my brother Edward. Clearly the young lady on my right was unimpressed by my scarlet and yellow striped lovelies, but I think I might have had better luck with the young filly below :-)



Wearing trousers with braces has two distinct advantages. Firstly, because they are worn higher (and therefore require a longer rise than the hipsters I mentioned earlier), it makes the legs look longer. This can be seen in the picture below of me lighting up a Marlboro Red.



Secondly, because they are quite literally hanging from the shoulder, they can be fitted loosely around the tummy. This leaves plenty of room for expansion if you want to indulge in a long lunch, sumptuous dinner, or, beer and pie fest.

When it comes to buying braces there are two firms that immediately spring to mind - Albert Thurstons, who supply to the great and the good on Jermyn street and Savile Row, and the American firm Trafalgar.

Forget those with metal clips as they can damage the cloth. What you need are loops of soft gloving leather with hand stitched button holes, like my wedding braces below.



These naturally require brace buttons which are sewn inside the waistband, often with a 'split-back'. Some of my customers prefer the more old-school style where you have a 'fish-tail' back with the buttons on the outside, as illustrated in the picture below.



Whilst I could extol the merits of braces until I'm blue in the face, there are many chaps out there who simply refuse to entertain them. They either don't like the feel of them on the shoulder, or, have concerns of resembling Bobby Ball, or, a character from a Dickens play.



The alternatives are a belt, or, having strap and buckle side fasteners on the waistband which are pictured below.



These are my favourite choice at the moment. They are very much a nod to the world of bespoke tailoring, work well with braces, and as a bit of a flashy git, I like some bling on the side of my trousers.

Over the past twelve months, I've done the hipster, flat-fronted, skinny legged thing to excess and have decided it's time to revisit my youth. Whilst I'll keep the bottoms fairly narrow, I'm going to break out the braces, go large on the rise and throw in a forward pleat or two.

As for the gorilla mask and Cherry Docs, least said, soonest mended!

Doing "The Baz" in Ibiza

I've seen that look in my customers eyes before. Desire, longing, want. Every new Bond film spawns a thousand suit fantasies and the latest catalyst for sartorial spending has been The Great Gatsby.

God bless The Silver Screen. I remember the 'Unit 4' cinema in Shipley when I was a child. A lurid horror-show of artex walls, sticky floors and velvet jump seats with built in ash-trays. This was the home of "Ghostbusters", "Cocktail", "the Karate Kid" - my friends and I transfixed as the lion roared through a smog of Marlboro reds.

How times change. I'd decided to check out DiCaprio's latest flick at "Everyman" cinema in the new Trinity shopping centre in Leeds. Ordering my tickets at 'the bar,' this was a far cry from my youth, where a man, who'd clearly given up on life, sold stale Maltesers and warm Pepsi from behind a scratched perspex kiosk.

I was asked whether I'd like my beer chilled, or served at room temperature. Yes, there was still time to order a pizza (which they'd bring to my seat) and the seat turned out to be a sofa, complete with plump cushions and a side-table. So far so good.

Sadly, the film was rather underwhelming. The acting was fine, there was glitz, glamour and frilly knickers in abundance but the story had all the depth of a flea's paddling pool. So, let's move on to more positive aspects, and in fact the reason why I went in the first place - the clothes.



From the off I was in seventh heaven. Enter stage right the tweed jacket. I adored the bellow patch pockets, half-belt on the back, and the way it had been styled with a bow tie and pocket hanky.



Then came Leo's white linen suit. I have a love / hate relationship with 'whites'. On the plus side they look so damn rakish. Perfect for chilling on the deck of a gin palace, or, if you're Tony Montana, visiting a cocaine field in Columbia.

On the down side, white fabrics are transparent and the seams, pocket bags and your underwear are often visible underneath. Heavy linen masks this better than a fine wool cloth, but then you have to live with the creases. What's the alternative? Go commando? Use a heavier, thicker cloth and fully line the trousers?? Do that and you'll end up sweating like a Scouser in Dixons.

In theory, wearing white is a great idea but in practice it can be a bit of a nightmare.



The stand out for me was his pink suit. What a fabulous outfit. I loved the stick-pin through the shirt collar and the tie complimented the cloth quite beautifully. Truly stunning. And how about the double-breasted waistcoat on the right with the widely spaced buttons. Wonderful.



The double-breasted number above was yet another triumph and here is further proof just how much a hat can elevate an ensemble. If you're looking for a Panama, then there's always James Lock & Co, or, Bates in London, however, a customer recommended a company called Pachacuti in Derbyshire and they look the business (and are a fair trade organisation).

I've heard a few grumbles on various clothing forums that the costumes were not historically accurate for the 1920's. As far as I'm concerned, it captured the mood and spirit of the time perfectly, and whose really bothered if the trousers were a touch on the slim slide.

A very good customer of mine recently commissioned this bobby dazzler below.



He's a true gentleman and a huge fan of vintage clothing. It's inspired from days gone by and certainly wouldn't look out of place quaffing champagne on Gatsby's terrace in Long Island.

I've dressed it with a linen pocket hanky, a Michelsberg bespoke shirt (with stick pin) and tie, and the pocket watch is my own. As a tribute to the film's wardrobe department, I only think it fair I should call it "The Baz."

As of this Friday, my wife and I will be having three wonderful nights away in Ibiza (sans kids) to celebrate Flynny's 40th birthday with Jo, Rach, Loz, Georgina, Chandon, Mark, Jo and Lu.


As the corks pop and martinis flow, to the throbbing bass and shaking hips of the coolest clubs in the old town, I'll raise a toast to those bright young things of the 1920's, who set the bar when it comes to doing decadence with style.

The Church of Good Taste

What's the deal with blokes who insist on getting their kit off in the City centre?



I crossed paths with this chap yesterday morning, his nipple rings flashing at me in the glorious sunshine. Brave as ever, my grip tightened on the handle of my Whangee Umbrella as I prepared to defend myself against this unsavoury character.

Luckily, he had no designs on my wallet, nor waistcoat, the latter which I would have gladly provided in a bid get some of that pasty skin off the streets.

One place you can rest assured of no superfluous papillae is the calm, genteel, wood panelled sanctum of English shoe making that is Church's store in the Victoria Quarter, Leeds.

It's just a soda-syphon and secret handshake short of a gentleman's club and here are Paul and Patrick who are it's guardians.



I am of the firm opinion that every man should have at least one pair of Church's in his wardrobe. I've currently got my beady eyes on the pair on the left in the photo below.

Perfect with a pair of straight-leg jeans, open neck shirt, charity bracelet and a glass of Champers, for 'dancing' the night away in Mahiki with Wills and Kate. Yah?



The chaps at Church's are lovely guys, incredibly helpful and very knowledgeable about the craftsmanship that goes into making a pair of Northampton's finest. They truly understand the importance of customer service and that is something to be applauded.

Patrick has even treated me to some of his personal stash of shoe polish and is one of the few people on Earth who can actually out-talk me. On my last visit he was kind enough to provide me with a guide on How To Look After You Shoes which includes "Grandma's shoe polish recipe" and how to get rid of shoe odor.

I've also set up a discussion about shoes on our Facebook Page and would love to get your comments on other makers and your favourite styles.

As the humidity and heat ramp up as we move through August, it can be a tough time for men when it comes to dressing correctly. The danger of short-sleeve shirts, cargo shorts and exhibitionists flashing their nipples at all and sundry is never far away.

Shoes are also potentially dangerous ground. Most men's feet are an abomination and Prada sandals can be the kiss of death to an unruly toe-nail. Getting it right isn't easy. Boat shoes - a bit rah? Crocks - god no. Which, I suppose leaves loafers.

I like the suede pair of Church's below. I can just see them dismounting a dusty Vespa Scooter and settling down for an espresso and grappa in a shady cafe in Tuscany.



Or there are these babies from Jefferey West, which you might find tucked under a kingsize day-bed in Ibiza, awash with empty bottles of Grey Goose, Cristal and sleeping super-models.



I can't stress enough how important it is to wear quality footwear. It say's more about you than than any other accessory and is worth the investment in getting it right.

So here's wising you, your feet and yes, even your damn nipples, a thoroughly enjoyable Summer.

Michelsberg Accessories and Shoes with Soul

If dressing well is an art form, then a bespoke suit is your canvas. If you want to create a masterpiece, then you've got to get down and dirty with the details and by that I'm talking about accessories.

Women understand this more so than men - many a cunning cougar, or flighty fox knows how a simple frock from Top Shop can be elevated to dizzy heights when teamed with a strappy pair of Louboutins and a Hermes Birkin.

It's the same for men. A simple black Mohair suit will own that cocktail party when worn with a summer weight cashmere scarf, tied nonchalantly underneath it, a crisp white shirt and a hanky stuffed rakishly into the top pocket.

Yes, it is the little things that count and will become your trade-mark, and so this month has seen the official launch of the Michelsberg Accessories website for men who laugh loud, live fast and dress proud.

It's an outrageously indulgent collection of silky loveliness, with some "Casino" style socks and "Steed" umbrellas thrown in for good measure. There is however one thing that is missing and that is shoes.

Without doubt, they are the singularly, sexiest, most important item in a gentleman's wardrobe and is where mere mortals are transformed into sartorial giants.

I am a huge fan of Jeffery West, although I'll occasionally flirt with Oliver Sweeney, and have made it my mission to seek out the finest foot candy available to humanity. I've already commented on the likes of John Lobb and Berluti but have recently heard incredible things about one of the four remaining shoe manufactures that remain in the UK.

So, I jumped in my car and headed to their factory in Northampton to find out more about the wonderful world of Edward Green.

Established in 1890 the business has been run for the last ten years by Hilary Freeman, who took over, when her partner, the legendary shoe designer John Hlustik sadly died.

Employing 55 craftsmen and ladies, they make 55 pairs a day, of which 80% are exported, and prices start at £585 with their 'Top Drawer' range starting at £995.

But before I get into the detail, let's look at some wonderful, unadulterated shoe-porn:





I love manufacturing businesses and the thing that really hit me when walking round the factory was just how much a truly artisan business this is. Much of the work is done by hand, using the simplest of tools, and what impressed me most was the genuine passion, pride and love for their craft that was apparent in everyone I met.

The shoe-making process begins with cutting out the leather pattern with a 'clicking knife', pictured below, named such because of the noise it makes when slicing through the leather.



Then these pieces are passed on to Jill for 'Skiving' (pictured below) whose job it is to grind down the edges of the various leather components so that when they are assembled and sewn together, no lumps are visible.



The process is so traditional that they actually make their own needles, using pig's bristles, to then sew the shoes upper together with waxed thread.



Next step is the 'lasting' process where the leather upper is stretched over the wooden last (which gives the shoe it's shape) by Eddie, both pictured below.





I particularly enjoyed watching the Goodyear Welt being stitched to the upper and insole of the shoe, which is used as an attach-point for the sole. The space is then enclosed and filled with cork under which the wearers feet 'bed down' and make their own unique incredibly comfortable fingerprint. How cool is that.



Heels are hand pinned and then it's off to the polishing room to Tim who applies the hand worked patina, applied in several stages. This 'antiquing' process was developed by John Hlustik and is a closely guarded secret.



And a visit to Edward Green would not have been complete without meeting Gary "The Slipper King" who makes these beauties featured below using a 'cemented' construction.





On the way back to the office we passed the 'sale rail' and bugger, I did it again and added another pair of lovelies to my collection.

My time with Hilary and the good folk of Edward Green was utterly memorable and I look forward to meeting with them again next month at the big Italian Menswear show in Florence, Pitti Uomo.

I must say, at times I do love my life :-)

Wrist Candy

On my twenty first birthday I was given an Omega De Ville watch by my parents and have to say it is one of my most treasured possessions.

I've spoken with people who have said they don't bother with a watch as they have the time on their mobile but to me this is madness.

A watch is so much more than a timepiece - it can be a thing of beauty, an investment, a mechanical marvel, something deeply personal with a wonderful story and history attached to it, a statement about who you are and what you stand for.

Like a bespoke suit, choosing the right watch is totally dependant on the personality of the person wearing it and what turns them on, what they are wearing it with and naturally the environment in which it is being worn.

Take for example, Elton John. He's on stage, tinkling the ivories in a velvet frock coat, purple sequined hot pants and theatrical wig. The camera does a close up of his hairy little fingers running up and down the keyboard and there it is - a pink, jewel encrusted, platinum Chopard monster, flashing away in a sea of dials, buttons and swarovski crystals. It kind of works for him but if I spotted such a number on my accountant, I'd run a bloody mile.



The modern day watch was born in the early 16th century when a German called Peter Henlein invented a portable mechanical clock called the "Nuremburg Egg" with just an hour hand on the face.

Watches that do more than tell the time are said to have a number of "complications" and include things like showing the date, the moon's phases, a chronograph (stop-watch), repeaters (which strike the time using dings and dongs) and a tourbillon (a complicated rotating cage that contains various parts of the working mechanism and as it rotates makes the watch more accurate).

Although some time-only watches are worth a fortune, those with many complications tend to be more expensive, however, they cost far more to service and because they are delicate are not for crashing about in every day.

Watches, such as the Breitling Navitimer, are an orgy of complications and dials, and whilst no doubt the toast of airmen the world over, are not for me. I don't have a pilots license and think they look busy, fussy and messy. My bet is they are predominantly worn by people who want to flash their cash, or who were good at science in school and played Dungeons and Dragons in lunch break.



As far as size goes, I have nothing in principle against large metal watches and think they can look far better on chaps with a bit of meat on them, rather than a skinny strip of leather with a slimline gold face. All I would say is that whilst big has become fashionable over the past few years I would question the longevity of this trend.

So who makes the best watches?

If you go to the websites Equationoftime.com, ThePursistS.com and TimeZone.com you will find a number of forums debating this question. What counts as the 'best' is a very subjective question and depends on how much weight you give to the quality of the movement, the number of complications, the rarity of the watch, the historical importance, the accuracy, efficiency and value for money.

That said, it is widely accepted that the following companies are regarded as the mighty stallions who graze and rule the top meadow of the watchmaking world:

Patek Philippe of Geneva, founded in 1839 is 'the king' of the watch industry and it's Calatrava is it's most famous line. It makes some of the most complicated watches in the world, has what is regarded as the most magnificent museum in the industry and does not bend to fashion.



Audemars Piguet founded in 1875 is still family owned and is one of the most respected brands with a vast selection of sports and dress watches, some simple, some incredibly complicated. It's Royal Oak luxury sports watch was introduced in 1972 and was made of stainless steel - a big risk at the time, but one that paid off big time!



Vacheron Constantin claims to be the oldest watchmaker since 1775 and initially pioneered using machines in the watchmaking process to produce better quality parts at a lower price. Their watches can be quirky and their detailed enamel work on the Mercator series shows the time quite uniquely.



Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) is the man when it comes to technology and it's manufacturing ability is unrivalled. Often supplying the movements and parts for it's 'rivals' it is known as the watchmaker's watchmaker. It's Reverso model is its best seller with a watch case that flips over to show a protective back, or the insides.



The list goes on - Rolex, TAG Heuer, Omega, IWC, Lange & Sohne (one of my favourite,), Blancpain, those who are often regarded as jewelers such as Cartier, Bulgari, Chopard and new brands such as Frank Muller, RGM and Jacques Etoile.

A finally I'll touch on the Swatch. The mechanical Swiss watch industry was batterd by the introduction of quartz watches by the Japanese companies Seiko and Citizen in 1969 which provided incredible accuracy at a fraction of the price.



The Swiss responded with a better and slimmer movement produced by ETA that was introduced into the plastic Swatch watch in 1980. Slim, fun, funky, with some designed by the likes of Vivienne Westwood, sales went mental and they continue to innovate to this day (some have computer microchips that can access the internet) selling more than 20million a year!



The watch you choose to wear will of course be dictated by what you can afford but with a little effort it is possible to find something fabulous and very 'you' at the right price.

I would say that a watch is with you wherever you go and is worth investing in. As guys, we don't spend our money on 'it' bags, jewelry, or, ninety quid hair cuts from a bloke called Kiest, so why not treat ourselves to something that is useful, beautiful and can be passed down to our children?

After all, time is the most precious commodity we have so why not keep it in something a little bit special.

Hanky Panky

Cruising above the out breast welt of a jacket, the pocket handkerchief is the shark of the sartorial sea. Its silky fin commands respect from those accessories lower down the food chain.

Legends who have succumbed to its charm include the Rat Pack, Sean Connery and Daniel Craig as 007, John Steed in the Avengers, Michael Caine as Alfie and the gents from Goodfella's.

Like Kelly Brook's contribution to reality TV, its sole purpose is to look good and provide a satisfying bulge in the pocket. It is the final flourish a gentleman makes to his attire and can transform something quite ordinary into the truly exceptional.

Wearing such an accoutrement takes confidence. The only rule as such is that when worn with a tie, the patterns and colours should not match. So long as you have a tailored jacket on your back, they can be worn any time, any place, any where.

There is something I find enjoyable about wearing a battered pair of jeans and white t-shirt at the weekend and then for the sheer hell of it, have forty quid's worth of silk hanging out of the top pocket of my jacket. Always have been a bit of a flash git.

When it comes to 'smart' clobber, the overall look doesn't have to resemble Captain Peacock from "Are you Being Served?" Think more along the lines of Reservoir Dogs - a closely fitted black suit, white shirt, skinny black tie and then to cap it off, a razor sharp square of crisp white linen slotted into the jacket pocket. Awesome.

Like choosing a tie, selecting the right pocket square requires taste. All I will say is keep it simple, less is more, keep the number of colours down to a minimum and don't be afraid to ask for advice. The many establishments on Jermyn Street will be only too happy to help.

Like most things in life, you get what you pay for - forget cotton, you need to go for linen or pure silk and size is important. Bigger is better. There is also the matter of how you arrange it. There are four basic shapes - the square, the triangle, the four point and the puff - but the skill is to make it look like you have aloofly thrust it into your pocket with little care for the finished result.

To me, the handkerchief is style personified. Nonchalant. Rakish. Genteel. I only hope you'll take the plunge, pop one in your pocket and show the plankton of this world how it's done.

Ties and a trip to London

I've recently had the most wonderful weekend in London. When it comes to treating oneself to the good things in life, the big smoke never fails to deliver.

Jumping off the tube at Green Park, my first port of call was Davidoff on St. James's Street, two minutes walk from the Ritz. To me, their humidor room is an oasis of peace and tranquility away from the hustle and bustle. An experience enriched further by the wonderful aroma of the finest Cuban and Dominican cigars, laid out beautifully in boxes and bundles of palm bark. Ten minutes later I left with a little bag of joy and next on the hit list was Fortnum and Mason to pick up a belated wedding present from my brother.

Ludicrously tiny lifts aside, Fortnum's is one hell of a department store. Rich in heritage, offering outstanding quality and service and the perfect place to do serious damage to your credit card (or trust fund). One set of La Guiole steak-knives and a Riedel wine decanter later (thanks Edward!) it was off to Piccadilly Arcade and my favourite shoe shop - Jeffery-West.

I've already waxed lyrical about these wonderful shoes in a previous blog and after only a few moments perusing the new designs, fell in love with a rather dashing pair of Marriott brougue gibsons. The deal was done and I left with a box tucked under my arm and a big smile on my face. Imelda Marcos, eat your heart out.

And last but not least it was off to perhaps one of my favourite shops in London -Turnbull & Asser on Jermyn Street.





Established in 1885 they are shirt-makers by Royal Appointment to The Prince of Wales and when it comes to buying shirts and ties are one of my firm favourites. The gentleman pictured above is Mr. Charles O'Reilly, the newest addition to their ranks.

Whilst a bespoke suit is the perfect canvas that frames your body and enhances your physique and stature, I believe it is the addition of colour and detailing via shirts, neckwear and accessories that really tells the world who you are and what you stand for. Putting the right combination of colours, patterns, textures and shapes together is an artform and ultimately will either make or break an outfit.

The advice I give to clients when choosing a cloth in the early days of building up their wardrobe is to keep it simple. A plain charcoal grey or dark blue worsted cloth is going to be far more flexible than a cloth with a heavy pattern and numerous colours. Charles Saatchi only ever wore black suits with a white shirt - he is well known for his love of minimalism and I would agree in part with the maxim that "less is more."

Keep the suit subtle and let your tie (and accessories) do the talking. I love ties, simply adore them and consider them to be one of the most important items in a gentleman's armory.

When it comes to quality, the best ties of today are made of 100% pure silk, although cashmere and wool ties will compliment flannel and tweed in the winter. It is worth pointing out that despite the "pure silk" label on many, most ties in fact have an interlining (inside the tie) often made of cotton which gives the tie its weight and substance.

The most expensive ties are "Seven-fold ties" and these do not have an interlining - the makers just start with a large piece of silk and fold it seven times to create the finished product. The only problem I have with them on a personal level is that they can appear a little bulky and so I tend to prefer something that gives a lighter feel with less volume.

The best ties in the world are "hand finished" which means the three pieces of material that are put together to make the tie are cut and sewn by hand. Legends include Marinella in Naples who provide bespoke ties for an incredible client list. They also sell "off the peg" ties (also handmade) and I am chuffed to say use an English company to make these up for them.

Other premiership players include Charvet in Paris (no website - Place Vendome - +33-1-4260 3070), and one of my own personal favourites Hermes.

When it comes to choosing a tie for your outfit, who am I to say what is right and wrong? What works 'best' is very subjective and is somewhat dependant on the occasion and level of formality you wish to achieve. Saying that, I thought I'd put forward a few suggestions that I believe are useful.

1) A crisp, white shirt with double cuffs is the old faithful. It is sharp, elegant, denotes a professional image and provides a clean backdrop to show off and enhance the colour(s) of your tie.

2) The most elegant patterns for ties are solids, stripes, spots and discreet geometric patterns. If you do spot someone wearing a tie printed with animals, words, obvious logo's, crazy shapes and god forbid..... Cartoon characters, do the man a favour and chop it off.

3) Keep the number of colours down to an absolute minimum. If your suit is of a plain cloth and quite subtle, then a splash of colour and a pattern on the tie will lift the ensemble. If you have on a pin-strip or check, keep the tie very simple, perhaps in a colour or shade that picks out a colour in the cloth of the suit, or, compliments it. As a rule of thumb, any more than 3 colours in an outfit and, unless you know what you are doing, you could be asking for trouble.

So there you go - not exactly rocket science. After what has been a wonderful dose of retail therapy and good times with friends, it's time to crack on in a bid to pay for all my indulgencies.

So go forth my friend, and be prepared to spend a little more than you should on your neckwear. After your shoes, it is the thing that says most about you, and a crumpled piece of polyester incorporating a small soup stain is not, in the words of Del boy, "bonnet de douche."

A bientot

Shoes glorious shoes

If there's one thing that gets my forward pleats twitching with excitement it is buying a new pair of shoes. I simply adore them. As I see it, a bespoke suit is the perfect canvas that frames your body but it is the accessories you choose that will make or break an outfit. Shoes in particular are vital and in short, you get what you pay for. So, may I welcome you to the wonderful world of "Jeffery-West" - English shoemaking at its finest. The gent on my right is Jack Vaughan - based in the Victoria Quarter store in Leeds, he has recently been taken under the wing of Guy West who is a partner and the head designer of the Northampton based business. Jack's first 12 designs are coming out next season and I for one can't wait! When I slip into a pair of Jeffery's, time stands still. The quality of the leather and construction is superb (Goodyear Welt, Hand burnished uppers) but it is the details that make them unique, sexy, cheeky and yet still dashingly elegant. I confess I am something of a peacock when it comes to dress so some of their designs might be little over the top for those clients of mine who prefer something a little more understated. Other people I would pen my name to in a flash include Oliver Sweeney - established in 1990 they have some superb designs, are made in Italy (I suppose the Italians do know a thing or two about shoes!!) and are by their own description are "classic-with-a-twist." Then there are the blue blooded classics - Church's are a part of our history (established in 1873) and with a little care they will last you a lifetime and are a real investment - every man should have a pair of these in his wardrobe. And finally it's top of the tree time and the world of bespoke shoe making (although I still think Jeffrey's are only a small twig away) - Berluti is based in Paris on the rue Marbeuf. It was founded in 1895 and is run by Olga Berluti - clients include the A-list of Hollywood and is only for those with very deep pockets. And last but not least, John Lobb - their shoes are handmade one pair at a time and cost upwards of £2000 - the staff in the St James store and incredibly friendly and very unaffected and will be delighted to tell you more about the incredible process, time and skill involved in creating a pair of these walking wonders. So that's about it for now - be warned, you might have the most divine Michelsberg suit on your back but if you are wearing a pair of dirty, clumpy, rubber soled brutes with worn down heals, then all that hard work will be wasted.