Michelsberg. James Michelsberg...

Is it just me that's stood in front of a mirror before a black tie dinner, raised an eyebrow and in a shocking Scottish accent uttered the immortal words, "..the name's Bond. James Bond."

Tonight I am attending an awards dinner as I have been included in the "42 under 42" run by Insider Magazine - more than enough excuse to treat myself to a new dinner suit.

It's a cheeky single breasted number with peak lapels in ribbed silk and for the 'scaramoosh' factor I've gone for a marcella waistcoat with a black silk back. The cloth is a Venitian weave from Edwin Woodhouse which provides a wonderful sheen and whilst it is very fitted, I've added a little more drape across the chest to accommodate my Walther PPK.

Next on the list was a quick call to Mark Hill, Sales Manager at Aston Martin JCT600 in Leeds and one Vanquish S later, my 007 fantasy was complete. Tim (who took the piccie) enthused about it's weight distribution, the 6.0 litre V12 engine developing 520 horsepower and a maximum speed in excess of 200 mph, but as I'm no petrol head it went in one ear and out of the other. To me, it just looks like the DB (the dog's bollux) and when I pushed the button to start the engine, the sound made my testicles tingle.

So. Threads - check. Wheels - check. All that is required is some arm candy and as you can see below, I've got my own version of Pussy Galore.



Introducing (from left to right) Anne, Sue, Helen, Diane, Sue, Janet and Sarah. These ladies know more about the inside of a pair of Men's trousers than most and believe me when I say it takes a brave man to come into their domain asking to take pictures! They are all great fun, put up with my last minute requests and are the reason why my client's trousers look so good. Honey Ryder wishes she has made so many men so happy.

Anyway, enough rambling and back to the dinner suit, or as Americans call it the "Tuxedo." Our friends over the pond claim they invented it and that one was first worn by a Mr. Griswold Lorillard, however, Henry Poole & Co claim they made a short smoking jacket for the Price of Wales. Legend has it that a wealthy New Yorker was invited to dinner by the Prince, asked him the dress code, was recommended to go to Savile Row for such a garment and when he got back to the Tuxedo Park Club in the States, wore it to many ooh's and aah's and the rest is history.

Who cares who invented it? The bottom line is that, white tie and tails aside, it is the single most elegant outfit in a man's wardrobe. It can be single or double breasted and the rules say it's supposed to have no vents. As you now know the rules, break them because side vents mean you can (shock horror) put your hand in your pocket without the jacket flying towards your arm pit and are ultimately more flattering on the seat.

The advice I offer is only wear a white jacket at outdoor events in the summer, bow-ties should be black and tied by yourself, pop a white hanky in your pocket and wear a highly polished pair of patent shoes. Whilst cummerbunds and wing collars add a little variety, I would say don't bother and keep it very simple.

And finally a little gem for you - when that gorgeous girl comes up to you and asks your name, here's what you say...

Hanky Panky

Cruising above the out breast welt of a jacket, the pocket handkerchief is the shark of the sartorial sea. Its silky fin commands respect from those accessories lower down the food chain.

Legends who have succumbed to its charm include the Rat Pack, Sean Connery and Daniel Craig as 007, John Steed in the Avengers, Michael Caine as Alfie and the gents from Goodfella's.

Like Kelly Brook's contribution to reality TV, its sole purpose is to look good and provide a satisfying bulge in the pocket. It is the final flourish a gentleman makes to his attire and can transform something quite ordinary into the truly exceptional.

Wearing such an accoutrement takes confidence. The only rule as such is that when worn with a tie, the patterns and colours should not match. So long as you have a tailored jacket on your back, they can be worn any time, any place, any where.

There is something I find enjoyable about wearing a battered pair of jeans and white t-shirt at the weekend and then for the sheer hell of it, have forty quid's worth of silk hanging out of the top pocket of my jacket. Always have been a bit of a flash git.

When it comes to 'smart' clobber, the overall look doesn't have to resemble Captain Peacock from "Are you Being Served?" Think more along the lines of Reservoir Dogs - a closely fitted black suit, white shirt, skinny black tie and then to cap it off, a razor sharp square of crisp white linen slotted into the jacket pocket. Awesome.

Like choosing a tie, selecting the right pocket square requires taste. All I will say is keep it simple, less is more, keep the number of colours down to a minimum and don't be afraid to ask for advice. The many establishments on Jermyn Street will be only too happy to help.

Like most things in life, you get what you pay for - forget cotton, you need to go for linen or pure silk and size is important. Bigger is better. There is also the matter of how you arrange it. There are four basic shapes - the square, the triangle, the four point and the puff - but the skill is to make it look like you have aloofly thrust it into your pocket with little care for the finished result.

To me, the handkerchief is style personified. Nonchalant. Rakish. Genteel. I only hope you'll take the plunge, pop one in your pocket and show the plankton of this world how it's done.

Ties and a trip to London

I've recently had the most wonderful weekend in London. When it comes to treating oneself to the good things in life, the big smoke never fails to deliver.

Jumping off the tube at Green Park, my first port of call was Davidoff on St. James's Street, two minutes walk from the Ritz. To me, their humidor room is an oasis of peace and tranquility away from the hustle and bustle. An experience enriched further by the wonderful aroma of the finest Cuban and Dominican cigars, laid out beautifully in boxes and bundles of palm bark. Ten minutes later I left with a little bag of joy and next on the hit list was Fortnum and Mason to pick up a belated wedding present from my brother.

Ludicrously tiny lifts aside, Fortnum's is one hell of a department store. Rich in heritage, offering outstanding quality and service and the perfect place to do serious damage to your credit card (or trust fund). One set of La Guiole steak-knives and a Riedel wine decanter later (thanks Edward!) it was off to Piccadilly Arcade and my favourite shoe shop - Jeffery-West.

I've already waxed lyrical about these wonderful shoes in a previous blog and after only a few moments perusing the new designs, fell in love with a rather dashing pair of Marriott brougue gibsons. The deal was done and I left with a box tucked under my arm and a big smile on my face. Imelda Marcos, eat your heart out.

And last but not least it was off to perhaps one of my favourite shops in London -Turnbull & Asser on Jermyn Street.





Established in 1885 they are shirt-makers by Royal Appointment to The Prince of Wales and when it comes to buying shirts and ties are one of my firm favourites. The gentleman pictured above is Mr. Charles O'Reilly, the newest addition to their ranks.

Whilst a bespoke suit is the perfect canvas that frames your body and enhances your physique and stature, I believe it is the addition of colour and detailing via shirts, neckwear and accessories that really tells the world who you are and what you stand for. Putting the right combination of colours, patterns, textures and shapes together is an artform and ultimately will either make or break an outfit.

The advice I give to clients when choosing a cloth in the early days of building up their wardrobe is to keep it simple. A plain charcoal grey or dark blue worsted cloth is going to be far more flexible than a cloth with a heavy pattern and numerous colours. Charles Saatchi only ever wore black suits with a white shirt - he is well known for his love of minimalism and I would agree in part with the maxim that "less is more."

Keep the suit subtle and let your tie (and accessories) do the talking. I love ties, simply adore them and consider them to be one of the most important items in a gentleman's armory.

When it comes to quality, the best ties of today are made of 100% pure silk, although cashmere and wool ties will compliment flannel and tweed in the winter. It is worth pointing out that despite the "pure silk" label on many, most ties in fact have an interlining (inside the tie) often made of cotton which gives the tie its weight and substance.

The most expensive ties are "Seven-fold ties" and these do not have an interlining - the makers just start with a large piece of silk and fold it seven times to create the finished product. The only problem I have with them on a personal level is that they can appear a little bulky and so I tend to prefer something that gives a lighter feel with less volume.

The best ties in the world are "hand finished" which means the three pieces of material that are put together to make the tie are cut and sewn by hand. Legends include Marinella in Naples who provide bespoke ties for an incredible client list. They also sell "off the peg" ties (also handmade) and I am chuffed to say use an English company to make these up for them.

Other premiership players include Charvet in Paris (no website - Place Vendome - +33-1-4260 3070), and one of my own personal favourites Hermes.

When it comes to choosing a tie for your outfit, who am I to say what is right and wrong? What works 'best' is very subjective and is somewhat dependant on the occasion and level of formality you wish to achieve. Saying that, I thought I'd put forward a few suggestions that I believe are useful.

1) A crisp, white shirt with double cuffs is the old faithful. It is sharp, elegant, denotes a professional image and provides a clean backdrop to show off and enhance the colour(s) of your tie.

2) The most elegant patterns for ties are solids, stripes, spots and discreet geometric patterns. If you do spot someone wearing a tie printed with animals, words, obvious logo's, crazy shapes and god forbid..... Cartoon characters, do the man a favour and chop it off.

3) Keep the number of colours down to an absolute minimum. If your suit is of a plain cloth and quite subtle, then a splash of colour and a pattern on the tie will lift the ensemble. If you have on a pin-strip or check, keep the tie very simple, perhaps in a colour or shade that picks out a colour in the cloth of the suit, or, compliments it. As a rule of thumb, any more than 3 colours in an outfit and, unless you know what you are doing, you could be asking for trouble.

So there you go - not exactly rocket science. After what has been a wonderful dose of retail therapy and good times with friends, it's time to crack on in a bid to pay for all my indulgencies.

So go forth my friend, and be prepared to spend a little more than you should on your neckwear. After your shoes, it is the thing that says most about you, and a crumpled piece of polyester incorporating a small soup stain is not, in the words of Del boy, "bonnet de douche."

A bientot

Covert Coats - who's your daddy?

Brrr - it's been as cold as a polar bear's privates this weekend so what a cracking excuse to show off my new 'covert' coat pictured above. Technically it's not a true covert coat for reasons which I will explain below and so I have come up with my own name for it - "The Daddy."

It's styled along the lines of "Lock Stock and Two Smoking Barrels," pimped up with some purple velvet which came from the same piece used to make a jacket for Elton John - cross my heart this is true! - and made from a Super 100's cloth with cashmere from Edwin Woodhouse.

A covert coat gets it's name from the hardwearing 'covert' cloth from which it is made - a process which involves the twisting together of 2 threads of a similar colour (usually in faun or green) which results in a durable fabric with a slightly mottled finish. The term 'covert' comes from the French "couvert", meaning shelter, and over time came to mean a hiding place for grouse and pheasants.

Originally worn in the countryside, it is single breasted, has a fly front (you can't see the buttons) , often velvet collars, slanted flaps on the outside of the coat with a ticket pocket above the one on the right hand side, and, uniquely has a number of rows of stitching on the ends of the sleeves and the hem. In the 'old days' this stitching was to stop the lining from getting ripped out as the landed gentry steamed over thorny hedges during a hunt for foxy. Allegedly, the greater the number of rows, the more hard-core the rider.

Mine has three rows (four is more common) which I'll admit is still ridiculous as the last time I was put on a horse I was nine, the owner smacked it's arse, it bolted, I threw myself off it in fear for my life and have been scared of horses ever since. I'd like to quote Joan River's comment about horses - "any animal that sh*ts and walks at the same time has got to be stupid." Nowadays, I think the stitches are to prevent the lining from getting ripped during tussles to get on the tube at rush hour in London - don't miss it a bit!! Ah, wonderful Yorkshire....

Anyway, back to my coat - I love it. Whilst I get a real buzz making clothes for my clients and watching them wallow in front of the mirror in their new threads, making something for myself is particularly sweet. So bring on the next cold snap and watch out all you foxes, "the daddy" is ready and waiting.

What is Bespoke?

To me Bespoke is more than just a word, it is a process, and I have outlined below the steps to thread heaven and explained how this differs from going down the made-to-measure route.

Once I've met a client and taken his measurements and any figuration details (does he have a drop shoulder? square shoulders? forward shoulders? stand erect? / stooped? etc) the next stage is to sit down with one of my cutters.

Introducing Rodney, or to many in the trade, Rod "The Mod." He has been in the tailoring trade since 15 years old, is the proud owner of a 1966 Lambretta and whilst claiming he never battled on the beaches of Brighton, admits to being a regular at Kaiser Chief concerts and Elland Road...still sounds like a trouble-maker to me!

It is his job to cut from the cloth, all the component parts of a suit (jacket fronts, collar, sleeves, pocket flaps, belt loops, etc) that will be handed down to my tailors to be sewn together.

His starting point is based on two key measurements of the client - to cut the coat, the size of his chest and for the trousers, his seat. For each of these measurements, we have developed a "pattern" or "block" which is basically a collection of shapes (made of card), which are an outline of all the component parts of a jacket / pair of trousers which when sewn together will fit the average man.

These shapes are then spread out on the cloth, and rather than chalking round them, cutting them out and then sewing them together there and then (like in the case of "off-the-peg") they are crucially moved, manipulated and adjusted to create a bespoke pattern based on the specific measurements and figuration details of the individual.

The bespoke pattern is then chalked, cut out and loosely sewn or "basted" together to produce the skeleton of the garment (called a "try-on") which will then be placed on the client so I can perform the all important first fitting.

Here, the garment is pinned and marked to produce the desired silhouette. Perhaps a sleeve will be shortened a touch, the shoulders "chipped" (reduced), maybe taken in a little on the pocket seams to shape the coat closer into the chest and the fronts marked with chalk to indicate the position of the buttonholes.

The "try-on" is then taken apart or "ripped down" and the relevant parts are re-cut (and put back together) in the workrooms to reflect the changes I have made during the fitting.




I am delighted to say that I am learning how to do the re-cuts myself and the picture above is of me during my first lesson, under intense supervision I might add!

It is at least a 7 year apprenticeship to be a 'tailor' (4 years tailoring / 3 years cutting) and those who have been doing it for decades say they are still learning. Whilst I believe my strengths lie in running the business and an ability to advise clients on appropriate cloth and the style of garment that will suit their shape (and personality) best, this learning process is giving me a much better idea of how our garments are constructed, what in-lays are provided (so I know how much weight you can put on before we need to make you another suit!) and allow me to get into the nitty gritty when talking with my tailors and cutters.

Depending on the extent of adjustments required after the 1st fitting, the garment is then either made to a finished garment, or, a further "forward fitting" is provided. This is where everything is in place (both sleeves are in, all the internal canvases,or, fuseables, pads, linings are in situ) except the button holes and collar. Minor tweaks might then be made, and following this, the suit is ready to be given it's first outing!


And so to made-to-measure.

Whilst it would be unfair to start naming companies, the typical modus operandi is as follows - whilst some do take a number of measurements and figuration details, many companies have a number of "try-on" jackets which are placed on the customer until 'best fit' is achieved.

Changes to sleeve length, perhaps the length of the jacket and waist are noted and then the cloth and measurements are sent off to a factory where, based on these measurements the garment is cut out (often using a computer) and made to a straight finish.

Sometimes a 'mock baste' is used where they will sew some white stitching all over the outside of what is basically a finished coat to make it 'look the part' and then will put the button holes in if the client is happy.

On the up side, and like the Bespoke process, the client does get to choose the cloth, lining, style of the garment. If the person in the shop has been trained to measure well, has the gift of good taste, the experience to know what style will work best for the client and there is no breakdown in communication between point of sale and the workrooms, then a decent garment might well be produced.

My big concern is that the pattern itself is only tweaked on a very minor basis (it's a bit like buying an 'off-the-peg' garment and getting it altered by an alterations tailor) and as it is often cut by computer, will struggle to cope with a clients figuration and be able to ensure the stripes and checks on a jacket match-up.

Far worse, is that a proper fitting is not provided - I passionately believe this is vital and at the very core of bespoke as this is where those crucial adjustments are noted and made to get the fit and silhouette perfect.

Made-to-measure suits can cost well over £800, so how do we manage to provide our British Bespoke line at this price?

Well, I am not greedy, have superb links with local mills in Yorkshire and don't believe in expensive advertising campaigns. Just energy, enthusiasm for my trade, an honest approach and good people behind me. I am starting a menswear revolution and you are invited to join me!!

That said, our Uber Level suits start at £2000 for a two piece suit and many of the establishments on Savile Row will be charging four grand plus. There are good reasons for this.

The level of construction is different. On our British Bespoke line, we machine the button holes, rather than sew them by hand. We provide a fused interlining with a floating canvas chest piece, rather than full canvas fronts.

I still believe the quality is exceptional and offers incredible value for money, but our Uber Level, or, a suit made by some of the tailors on the Row will take up to 80hours to produce, whereas on the British Bespoke we have used methods to bring this time down.

Re "some" - I can reveal that some companies on the Row send work out overseas for hand sewing but with most of the old school establishments (whom I will mention in a later blog) it's all done in the UK. I will never name these people as good work is still ultimately produced - all I want to do is help you ask the right questions before you decide to part with your money.

Lunching with Legends

Greetings - today is my first day back in the office and not a moment too soon. My Christmas in the Lake District was wonderful but despite the odd walk, has been an orgy of rich food, red wine, malt whiskey and even a cheeky Cohiba cigar on New Years Eve. Sadly, all good things must come to an end.

One of the highlights of the festive period was an invitation to lunch by Thomas Mahon, pictured on the left of the photo above. His company, Englishcut, is based at Warwick Hall in Cumbria and his last employer was Anderson and Sheppard, one of the most respected tailors on Savile Row. He has an international client base, with regular visits to the US, although he does look after the occasional Brit including Prince Charles. The chap on his right is Alan Pitt former senior cutter at Anderson & Sheppard, so you could say I was rubbing shoulders with the Jackie Stewart and Lewis Hamilton of the tailoring world.

After checking out the divine construction of his coats (to be discussed in a later entry) and much enjoyable conversation about the bespoke tailoring business and life in general, we had a quick bomb round the country lanes in his MG Midget (hence my racing driver analogy!) and then headed off to fill our stomachs. Lunch was a smashing Shepherds pie and a very nice pint of Copperdragon at The Blacksmiths Arms in Brampton and then it was back to Windermere for the run-up to New Year.

So here it is - 2008 - last year was great for me for many reasons but I know this one is going to rock. After all, number 8 is a lucky number in Chinese culture and 1.3billion people can't be wrong. Bring it on folks. Bring it on!

Looking after your threads

A question I'm often asked is, "what should I do to look after my suit?" In short, treat it with a little love and kindness and it will grow old gracefully.

I have a wonderfully eccentric client who recently attended a wedding and am reliably informed ended up "windmilling" on the dance-floor wearing a jacket I'd made-up for him in a 12oz worsted cloth. Whilst this is quite a hard wearing fabric and our jackets are well constructed, this goes beyond normal wear and tear.

So, the first rule - no break-dancing.

The second - invest in a trouser press (corby) - it will double the life of your suit because they have a nice fat coathanger on the back which will keep the shape in the shoulders, allow the creases to fall out of the jacket (as it's not rammed into an overcrowded wardrobe) and the pleats in your trousers will be kept as sharp as a razor.

The third - buy some decent coat hangers (big ends to support the shoulders) and a quality clothes brush and give it a good going over each time you wear it. I know it sounds a bit OTT but is does help to remove the dirt particles that get ingrained in the wool fibres when out and about.

The forth, and perhaps most important, is rotation. If you've just bought a new suit don't rise to the temptation of wearing it all the time. I appreciate it's a bit tricky if your wardrobe is limited, but clothes need a rest after a days graft. They need to get on their hangar and chill out for a day or two. If you are going to wear a suit often, it does makes sense to buy an extra pair of trousers.

And last but not least - avoid taking it into the dry cleaners as much as possible. Most use liquid chemicals called solvents that will remove stains from a variety of fabrics, however, the most common chemical used is called "Perc" which is toxic with both human health and environmental concerns, although these have yet to be proved....(don't want a law case on my hands!) In my opinion, the less contact natural fibres like wool have with chemicals the better.

Is what most suits need to give them a new lease of life is a good press and this bring me to the very happy looking gentleman who is pictured at the top of this entry on the left hand side - introducing Brian.


Pressing is an art and it is a vital part during the creation of a bespoke suit. In the old days, tailors worked wonders with a 14lb iron and a wet rag, but today's technology has improved things amazingly. It is the steam that relaxes the fibres of the cloth which is then shaped accordingly but the trick is then to remove the steam as if the cloth is left damp, it will easily crease. Today's steam presses are very clever and incorporate a heating element and a pedal-operated vacuum to pull air through the board and dry the garments but the finished job is only as good as the person using it - if a press was a piano, then Brian is the Mozart of the North.

So that's about it for now - all that remains is to wish you all a wonderful Christmas break- I will be spending mine in the Lake District - log fires, warm beer and fresh air. Perfect.