Grazie Roma

Out for lunch with a customer last Friday, I felt the sun's warmth on my cheek for the first time in ages. The restaurant was buzzing, people were smiling and one duck pappardelle later I left, ready to cast the dark, dank, cloak of winter from my shoulders.

From a cloth point of view, the mill owners of Yorkshire are feeling frisky and have well and truly declared that Spring is in the air. They've just sent me their new bunches which have more kick than a lamb running from the butcher.



Every cloth has a story to tell. I recently showed a customer a purple chalk-stripe flannel from Holland & Sherry I was thinking of having made up into my next suit. He grinned and said, "if I were you, I'd go for something a little more Catholic." Brilliant.

If textiles were religious, then these fabrics would be sparkly-eyed happy clappers, banging their tambourines, full of hope, joy and positivity.

Scabal's 'San Remo' bunch smacks of jazz on La terrazza, the whiff of a Cohiba cigar and dark eyed Latin beauties. There's a lightweight jacketing bunch in wool and silk from Dormeuil, put on earth to be driven 'Italian Job Style,' in an e-type jag down the winding roads of the Amalfi coast.

I've just taken an order for a suit, in a petrol blue summer kid mohair from William Halstead's. It's destination, Vegas. The natural sheen and lustre deserve nothing less than a stretch Cadillac, chilled champagne and some very naughty behaviour.

All in all, they ooze and bubble with colour and optimism - a preview of long summer nights and the good times ahead.

I mentioned last month that as well as our new bespoke full canvas offering, I had more news to tell and indeed that's the case.

For the past two years I've been a bit like the man from Delmonte, searching for other tailors to work with to offer my customers something a little bit different. I've been to menswear shows all over Europe and had trial garments made by work-rooms in Portugal, Italy, Eastern Europe, Mauritius and China.

Our current half canvas British bespoke offering creates an imposing silhouette with a strong, highly defined shoulder line. The waist is suppressed and the chest has a swell and thrust matched only by that of a strutting peacock. It's everything that you'd expect from an English tailors and like the bobby dazzler below, I love it.



That said, I do have a huge respect for Italian tailoring. As a young thrusting executive in London for many years, I used to buy off-the-peg suits from Zegna and Armani. On a trip to Rome, I remember buying a black two piece suit from Valentino on the Via Condotti. When I left the shop, I felt like I'd 'made it.' :-)

But it was a recent trip to Pitti Uomo in Florence that really made me stop and look at the Italian way of doing things.

It's been said, the best dressed Englishman is an Italian, and to be fair, Italian men do know how to dress. Achieving La Bella Figura is in their blood.

Whilst there are differences between Italian tailoring houses, I think it's fair to say their way of building a suit is much more unstructured and provides a more relaxed alternative. Jackets are often half-lined, with little or even no wadding in the shoulders.

So, after putting a number of firms through their paces, I finally jumped into my helicopter and said 'Yes.' For the last 6 months I have been trialing my new Italian inspired made-to-measure offering with considerable success. I've delivered over twenty suits, one of which is pictured below.



The soft, more rounded shoulders are typical of what you'd expect from many Italian companies but there is in fact some padding used. A true 'Neapolitan' shoulder has NO padding but I think the desired effect has been achieved.

The construction is half canvas with fused fronts and comes in at a similar price point to the British Bespoke, starting at £700. It's great for people who prefer unlined jackets, or very light fabrics. The process is quicker than British bespoke, as there is no need for two full fittings, and a garment can be made to a 'straight finish' in five weeks.

So I now have three strings to my tailoring bow. A half canvas British Bespoke and Italian inspired made-to-measure line coming in at £700, and a top of the tree, full canvas garment, pad stitched by hand, with hand sewn button holes coming in at £2000 upwards.

It goes without saying there are other fine tailoring workshops on my radar that require investigation. All this market reaseach naturally means further additions to the Michelsberg wardrobe and that's never a bad thing. ;-)

A Snappy New Year

Another year, another dollar, and after what has been a highly indulgent Christmas, it seems another chin.

For ten gloriously gluttonous days I put my feet up, except for an enjoyable trip to Helmsley for a photo-shoot with two new customers.

Introducing brothers George and James Craig, from the band, 'One Night Only.'



They knocked on my door after spotting the particularly dandified double-breasted waistcoat in scarlet doeskin I'd made for Jack at Jeffery-West shoes.

The clincher was when he explained to them that a button was missing 'because a girl had ripped it off.' Priceless. PR from the gods.

Beers were drunk, ideas exchanged and I think the results speak for themselves.

George, the lead singer, went for a very fitted, single-breasted number with slim notch lapels and cut-away fronts.I love the flash of lining on the cuffs and the bright yellow melton under-collar.



James, the drummer, went for an electric blue, silky Super 130’s cloth from Dormeuil, with brown velvet top-collar and jets. There’s a brilliant white lining with flashes of velvet in the cuff vents and cloth covered buttons.



These guys are going places, quite literally. George is currently playing with the rest of the band in Rio, whilst James is in Vegas as best man for a mate's wedding.

Dealing with them has been a genuine pleasure and the fact that my threads are tearing it up in Brazil and Sin City, puts a big fat smile on my face.

AND NOW FOR SOME BIG NEWS.

Never happy standing still and doing the same old thing, I am thrilled, delighted, excited and buzzing to announce a new line to the Michelsberg armoury.

THE UBER LEVEL!!

It's a top-of the tree, earth-shatteringly awesome, fully bespoke, full canvas product.

A first fitting of which is shown below.



Like an Aston Martin, it's beautiful to look at and will turn heads, but when it comes to performance and handling it's what's underneath the bonnet that counts.



The construction under the cloth has a number of layers. First the body canvas (which goes right down to the bottom of the coat), then the chest canvas, or hair-cloth, and finally a layer of domette (it looks a bit like felt) to protect the wearer from the prickly canvas underneath.

These three layers are then pad stitched (sewn) together and crucially shaped and moulded by hand to create a soft armour with which to flatter and caress the wearer's body.

The lapels are hand-padded which means the cloth and a layer of silecia (a bit like linen) is folded and sewn together by hand to achieve a beautiful 'roll,' rather than the flat lapels you get with many off-the-peg garments.

This folks, is as good as it gets. A herd of sartorially astute, stampeding wilder beast would stop dead in their tracks and gasp at the mind-blowing quality of such workmanship.

The clip below gives you a quick peek at the V12, 48 Valve, work of art that lurks beneath Huddersfield's finest.



There's about sixty hours of hand-sewing involved which provides a wonderfully artisan feel to the garment. As well as the time spent in building the internal structure of the coat, it's the time invested in the finishing that takes things to another level.

The edges of the fronts, pocket flaps, cuff vents and out-breast welt are all prick-stitched by hand. The lining is hand-felled (sewn) all the way round and eased into the armholes. Finally, the lapel hole and every button hole is meticulously hand sewn in silk twist thread as can be seen in the footage below.



It's what you'd expect if you went to the blue blooded houses on Savile Row, and that's been my goal from the start. To be able to offer my customers a world-class service with a product to match. The real deal. The best of the best.

This January has got off to a belting start and I've got more news to reveal in my next blog. So until then it's back to my pins and chalk and hopefully a few trips to the David Lloyd health club to try and get that chin sorted out.

Sew this is Christmas!

Last Sunday I enjoyed a perfect quiet moment to myself. Wallowing by the log fire with a belly full of lamb shanks, I raised a glass of Chianti to the newly installed Christmas tree in the corner and looked forward to my favourite time of the year.

To me, Christmas is all about the build-up, and mine has well and truly begun. Last Monday evening was the final of the Michelsberg Debating Competition.

Held at the Malmaison Hotel in Leeds, there was a really festive vibe as judges, teams and guests enjoyed carols and a glass of red wine, amongst twinkling lights and candles in the Chateaux lounge.

Jo Bancroft, trainee solicitor at Ford & Warren, won the award for Best Speaker, her prize, a bespoke suit, which will be made for her future husband when they get married in September 2012.



The motion was, 'This house would rather be East than West,' and judges included (from the left) myself, David Parkin (TheBusinessDesk.com), Adam Roney (Best Speaker 2010, ex Eversheds, now Founder of Calls9) and Andrew Stubbs QC (St. Pauls Chambers)



Sairish Tahir and Tom Woodhead of Pinsent Masons, pictured above, were voted Best Team and other finalists included Alex Cook & Dorothea Shreiver of Eversheds, and Nicola Collins and Anna Moran of Clarion Solicitors.

Other participating firms included DLA, Gordons, Squire Sanders Hammonds, DWF, Addleshaw Goddard, Cohen Cramer, Shulmans and BPP Law School.

The event was everything I’d hoped for – it was fun, edgy, and I have nothing but admiration for everyone who took part. Next year I will be opening it up to trainee barristers and young professionals outside the legal sector.

Then on Thursday evening it was my Christmas Drinks party.

Despite the filthy weather, well over a hundred customers and suppliers came to support me and let their hair down. What a buzz. It was my party and if alcohol consumption is anything to go by, we had a ball.

It was a bit like a private members club for people with a shared love of fine threads and a healthy disregard for clean living.

One of the great things about tailoring is that over time, many of your customers become friends, such as Steve and Anje in the photo below.

I got a real kick out of them all enjoying each others company and devouring my liquid hospitality provided by the legendess that is Miss Sophie Bratt.



The Christmas spirit was well and truly raining down upon (and into) us and to cap it off, I had my youngest daughter's christening on Sunday.

There are few places more beautiful, charming and special to me than The Priory Church at Bolton Abbey, and the Rev. James Turnbull made what is always a joyful event, truly magical for us all.

Our best friends made it up from London to be with us and here is Paul Flynn, The Godfather, with the lady of the hour, Elizabeth Jasmine.



So, to all you 'Bah! Humbug' gibbons out there, I'll say it loud, and I'll say it clear. I love Christmas! Things are winding down a bit, my brother and his family are heading over from Melbourne and the final of 'Strictly' and 'MasterChef' are still to come. It's all good.

Wishing you all a truly wonderful time of it over the next couple of weeks and here's to more fun, fine suits and new friendships in the year 2012.

Sharp suits and sniffles.

As I staggered into the coat-makers with half a dozen fittings in each hand, my bag over my shoulder and a length of cloth and lining under my arm, I recalled the words of Thomas Edison: "Genius is one percent inspiration, ninety-nine percent perspiration."

I raised my eyes to the sky, thanked the Lord for Right Guard and made a mental note to book in for an IQ test.

This month has been full-on. Absolutely Mental. It hasn't helped that I've been suffering from that terrible affliction known as man-flu, but like many a chap, I've put on a brave face and battled on without a whimper, or, request for sympathy...sniff..

Business has been great and I'm not complaining. I've delivered some of my finest suits yet, real Michelsberg specials, including a stunning, very classical dinner suit in Summer Kid Mohair and Cashmere from Taylor & Lodge (as worn by Daniel Craig in Quantum of Solace) and a couple of belters for the lead singer and drummer of 'One Night Only.'



I love the contrast of the brown velvet collar and pocket jets against the electric blue Dormeuil cloth (made-up using the reverse side). It's extravagant, louche and wonderfully decadent.

Then there's this fella made in the finest Italian Flannel from Biella - that stripe and acid yellow lining just oozes confidence and attitude.



On top of the day job, I've been running the Michelsberg Debating Competition and last night was the second round.

All the big law firms of Yorkshire are involved and so far Pinsent Masons and Clarion are through to the final. Co-ordinating twenty-four young lawyers and ten barristers hasn't been easy, but so far so good, and the final takes place this coming Monday at the Malmaison Hotel in Leeds.

Then I've been organising the Michelsberg Christmas drinks party which kicks off on the 8th December from 6pm. It's to coincide with carol singers and late night shopping at the Victoria Quarter. I've ordered the bubbles, glasses, bar staff so all I need now are my thirsty customers and suppliers. They haven't let me down yet :-)

And finally, there's been some very exciting developments in terms of our tailoring offering to customers. Since the move to the VQ, we've started doing bespoke shirts and so far I've delivered just under seventy of them. One customer, a Mr. Geoff Shepherd, likened them to "high-end business pyjamas." I only wish I'd started selling them sooner.

But as far as our threads go, the big news is yet to come and will be revealed in my next blog. In the meantime, it's back to my box of tissues and book on Quantum Physics. Sniff.

Trip to Shanghai

It's four hours before my flight home and I'm closeted in the cigar bar of the JC Mandarin Hotel, a bottle of Tsing Tao beer in my left hand, a knock off Montblanc pen in my right, trying to find words that do justice to the incredible city that is Shanghai.



Here for a mixture of business and pleasure, it's blown my mind. Whilst Europe shivers from an ill wind of debt, China sunbathes confidently in a Gucci G-string.

What a city. It's bold, brassy, bristles with energy, has the swagger of John Wayne and more grunt than Monica Seles. I was staying just off the Nanjing Road, their equivalent of Bond Street.

Perched by the fountains opposite Plaza 66 (home to some of the flashiest frock and clock shops on the planet) I watched the world go by. It's bonkers. Utter Madness. Taxis terrorise bag laden shoppers like angry wasps and the highway code boils down to survival of the fittest.

Cash registers are going chicken oriental. Paris Hilton couldn't stand the pace. It's the Wild West meets Beverley Hills. The streets smell of lead, duck pancakes and money.

I was told I had to visit the Alfred Dunhill store on the Huai Hai Road. Owned by the Richemont group it's one of the coolest set-ups I've come across. You wander down a discreet little path to arrive in front of two 1920s neoclassical style villas. The one on the left is Dunhill, the right, Vacheron Constantin, with a private members club above.



There's a covered walkway between the two, a quaint little garden, rattan chairs and parasols. It's like being blasted back to the days of the British Raj, a place for sipping a Gin & Tonic and then heading out to bag a tiger after lunch.

I shopped till I dropped, ate duck's tongue and hairy crab, hit 'The Bund' and gawped at the Skyline, partied at the Mint Club with the Editor of Twist Magazine who was over for 'Intertextile', and had a cracking night out with the Sales Director of John Fosters, who was visiting customers in Asia.

It wasn't all picnics and lashings of Ginger beer. I visited a trade show and hooked up with some London based tailors who are at the top of their game offering truly outstanding garments. Without being too melodramatic (not like me at all) they were pretty inspirational and have made me even more determined to keep driving and get better at what we do. A plan is beginning to form in my mind but I'm going to keep my powder dry for now... ;-)

I checked out the Shiliu Puhong Qixiang Cloth Fabric Markets, where the quality was variable, and popped in to see a couple of tailors who've been recommended to me. One, The Humsuit Company, the other, Dave's Custom Tailoring. Here I am below with one of his coat makers.



Now I know the latter sounds a bit like one of Del boy's mates but the quality seemed excellent. The lapels and interlinings (canvas, silesia, domette) are hand-padded, meaning they are rolled, shaped and sewn into place by hand, and the button holes made by hand.



It's been a full on month. As well as the day job and my trip, I've been doing the preparations for the Michelsberg Debating Competition which kicks off again at the end of November. All the big legal firms in Yorkshire have signed up with the final on the 5th December.

So it's foot down now until the end of the year. No more jollies, no more trips to foreign shores, just cracking on with the daily grind and putting things in place for the next chapter in my company's development.

Wishing you all the best in the run up to Christmas and remember, a Michelsberg brolly, silk tie or bespoke shirt would make someone a lovely prezzie :-)

Stormy weather

Summer has scoffed her deep-fried peanut butter sandwich and left the building.

This morning my foot winced a little as it vacated the warmth of the duvet, leaving me reaching for a weighty double breasted number to brave a slight chill in the air that I'd forgotten existed.

The rain lashed down as I left the car park. Cowering under my umbrella I scuttled off to work, passing non-brollied people pulling epic rain-faces, gurning away like Blake Fielder-Civil after a big weekend in Ibiza.

I've already delivered quite a few overcoats in preparation for the onslaught of Winter. Classic covert coats with velvet collars and bright linings are always popular and I'm currently making a couple of things that are a bit different.

Today I'm doing a first fitting on 'The Swashbuckler.' It's very long and heavily skirted, inspired by the caped character in the Sandeman Port adverts with a pinch of Pirates of the Caribbean and Withnail & I (one of my favourite films) thrown in for good measure.



Something that won't have escaped your sartorial radar is the popularity of Tweed at the moment. I've blogged about it in a previous post and have recently got some bunches in that would knock the balls off a mighty elephant.



Bold over-checks and LSD inspired designs are the name of the game here, vastly removed from the dour browns and greens favoured by damp Scottish gamekeepers as they grumble into their Whiskeys.

That said, you don't need colour to make Tweed look stylish. Check out this little baby we made for a recent customer. It's a very fitted three button coat and I'm loving the patch pockets and flap on the out-breast welt.



I'm also a big fan of the Storm Collar, particularly when it's worn with the collars up, à la Eric Cantona. It's tough, confident, full of swagger and says don't call me names or I'll kick you dans la tête.

But the French man, like myself, would snort in disgust at an 'ooh ahh' collar worn on a lounge suit, like the one I spotted on Peter Jones whilst watching Dragons Den last night.



Utterly, teeth-clenchingly, balls-rising-upwardly grim. A storm-collar was designed to fight the wind and keep out the cold and should only be found on overcoats and garments of substance.

What on earth was he thinking? Maybe the air conditioning gets a bit full on in the back of his Maybach but that is still no excuse for placing what is tantamount to a penis extension above the lapel. It's a veritable carbuncle and ultimately sacrilegious towards a silky Super 150's cloth. Shameful.

Now it's just possible that I'm getting my knickers in a twist over nothing. To paraphrase Withnail, the fact that the best tailoring Peter Jones has ever seen is above his appendix doesn't mean anything.

Perhaps I need to chill out a little, and that, my friends, is the plan for next week.

I will be heading to Croyde Bay with my family to indulge my passion and love for surfing. Yes, if Mother Nature is kind to me, by Saturday lunchtime I'll be top-to-toe in rubber and up to my nipples in the healing waters of the Atlantic ocean.

And later that night, as I flounce into The Thatch Inn and demand the finest wines available to humanity, I will politely inform the landlord, that I'm not from London you know.

The Church of Good Taste

What's the deal with blokes who insist on getting their kit off in the City centre?



I crossed paths with this chap yesterday morning, his nipple rings flashing at me in the glorious sunshine. Brave as ever, my grip tightened on the handle of my Whangee Umbrella as I prepared to defend myself against this unsavoury character.

Luckily, he had no designs on my wallet, nor waistcoat, the latter which I would have gladly provided in a bid get some of that pasty skin off the streets.

One place you can rest assured of no superfluous papillae is the calm, genteel, wood panelled sanctum of English shoe making that is Church's store in the Victoria Quarter, Leeds.

It's just a soda-syphon and secret handshake short of a gentleman's club and here are Paul and Patrick who are it's guardians.



I am of the firm opinion that every man should have at least one pair of Church's in his wardrobe. I've currently got my beady eyes on the pair on the left in the photo below.

Perfect with a pair of straight-leg jeans, open neck shirt, charity bracelet and a glass of Champers, for 'dancing' the night away in Mahiki with Wills and Kate. Yah?



The chaps at Church's are lovely guys, incredibly helpful and very knowledgeable about the craftsmanship that goes into making a pair of Northampton's finest. They truly understand the importance of customer service and that is something to be applauded.

Patrick has even treated me to some of his personal stash of shoe polish and is one of the few people on Earth who can actually out-talk me. On my last visit he was kind enough to provide me with a guide on How To Look After You Shoes which includes "Grandma's shoe polish recipe" and how to get rid of shoe odor.

I've also set up a discussion about shoes on our Facebook Page and would love to get your comments on other makers and your favourite styles.

As the humidity and heat ramp up as we move through August, it can be a tough time for men when it comes to dressing correctly. The danger of short-sleeve shirts, cargo shorts and exhibitionists flashing their nipples at all and sundry is never far away.

Shoes are also potentially dangerous ground. Most men's feet are an abomination and Prada sandals can be the kiss of death to an unruly toe-nail. Getting it right isn't easy. Boat shoes - a bit rah? Crocks - god no. Which, I suppose leaves loafers.

I like the suede pair of Church's below. I can just see them dismounting a dusty Vespa Scooter and settling down for an espresso and grappa in a shady cafe in Tuscany.



Or there are these babies from Jefferey West, which you might find tucked under a kingsize day-bed in Ibiza, awash with empty bottles of Grey Goose, Cristal and sleeping super-models.



I can't stress enough how important it is to wear quality footwear. It say's more about you than than any other accessory and is worth the investment in getting it right.

So here's wising you, your feet and yes, even your damn nipples, a thoroughly enjoyable Summer.