Power Cords

Happy New Year my friends - may it be a fabulous one for us all!

I'm slowly getting back to my fighting weight, after what has been a particularly sinful Christmas, and am delighted to report that business has got off to a cracking start.

There's a real Seventies vibe going on at the moment, with bold checks, wide lapels and deep collared shirts increasingly featuring in the armoury of my victims.

My apprentice, Mr Anderson, has fully embraced this nod to the days of helmet-hair and flashing dance-floors, with the addition to his wardrobe of this plush, burgundy corduroy suit.



Back in the days of disco and devilment, corduroy was worn by the likes of Jagger and Dylan, but has also been embraced by the landed gentry and Oxbridge professors.

Whilst I have nothing again brains, or blue-blood, we wanted something sharp, more strutting rock star, than fusty fuddy-duddy. So, we've turned up the volume, put on our platform shoes and given it the right royal Michelsberg treatment.

It's skin tight, fitted to the max, with one button to fasten, flamboyant four-inch peak lapels and a turn-up on the (very slim) trouser.

The look has a raffish air about it - perfect attire for deflowering a fur-clad lovely in St. Moritz, rather than taking tea and crumpets with Stephen Fry in West Bilney.

Corduroy has a wonderfully soft, luxurious and indulgent handle. Together with moleskin and velvet, it was part of a group of cotton and linen based fabrics, known in the Nineteenth Century as the 'fustians'.

Today, it's usually made of 100% cotton, although the cloth company Scabal have a lovely bunch blended with 10% cashmere.

In terms of its manufacture, the loom is set up with a higher number of weft threads (running left to right) than warp threads (running up and down) so that a dense, smooth, fabric is produced. This is then cut using special machines to form 'ridges' of raised pile down the length of the piece.

Cord is classified according to the size of the ‘wale’, or the number of ridges per inch.

I prefer ‘needlecord’ or ‘pincord’ which has a finer amount of wales, meaning the cord count is higher. It's softer and more subtle than the brown 'jumbo' cord trousers of my youth :-)

Another trend that's very popular at the moment, is 'separates' - mixing up jackets, trousers and vests in different materials, colours and textures.

One of the benefits of investing in a corduroy suit is that you’ll have a sharp jacket to wear with jeans, flannels, or, cotton chinos. Alternatively, you can wear the trousers with knitwear, or, a closely fitted wool blazer, or, top-coat.

It takes a certain degree of style and flair to get it right, but that's all part of the fun. Bringing together a selection of garments and accessories to create a look that is harmonious and unique.

We've just taken delivery of a stunning new Italian jacketing bunch, as well as Scabal's Spring / Summer collection in cotton, linen and silk.



Whilst most will work with jeans, they are just crying out for that perfect pair of strides. Whether that's a light grey shade of cool wool, or a seriously bright gabardine is up to you.

Roll on Spring and let the dressing up begin!

Yuletide Greetings

On Monday 23rd December, Christmas came early at Michelsberg Tailoring with an exciting delivery from the elves at UPS.

Introducing our new selection of Donegal tweed, knitted silk ties, and assortment of pocket hanks - deep joy.



With the frenzied excitement of my three year old daughter Elizabeth, faced with a new "Frozen" costume, I ripped off my Hermes number and slipped on a burgundy Donegal, secured with my favourite knot - the half-Windsor.

My subsequent preening was then rudely interrupted by Charlie, my twenty two year old side kick, who informed me that I should really be using the Four-in-Hand.

Let the heated debate begin.

When it comes to tying one's neck-candy, the question of which knot to use is overwhelming. The half-Windsor, full-Windsor, Four-in-Hand, Double-Four-in-Hand (Prince Albert), Balthus, Trinity, Pratt, Nicky, Kelvin, Fishbone are just a few for consideration.

Any of the above can be viewed using the powers of Google and You-Tube, but for the purpose of this little missive, I'm going to stick with two, as they represent two very different schools of thought.

In the red corner: asymmetrical, smaller, slightly elongated, and often called the "school boy's knot" we have the Four-in-hand.



In the blue corner, symmetrical, looks like an inverted triangle, the half-Windsor (it's larger cousin, the Windsor, often called the "foot-ballers knot")



Technically, what works best for you will depend on how spread (open) the collar is, the size and proportion of your face, the tie itself (weight of fabric, its dimensions) and of course, the style of the coat you are wearing it with.

The Four-in-Hand Knot, because it's smaller and longer, works well on shirts with narrower, or button down collars, skinny or medium-width ties, and men who have slimmer faces with a more defined chin.

Take for example, Mr Connery in the picture below.



His skinny, knitted silk tie and slim 60's style lapels add weight to the above. As far as his chin goes, it's certainly slimmer than mine after several Christmas dinners and seven days on the sauce.

In From Russia With Love, Ian Fleming wrote that, "Bond mistrusted anyone who tied his tie with a Windsor knot; it showed too much vanity. It was often the mark of a cad."

Strong words that must be taken with a pinch of salt, particularly when considering he also said "sumo wrestlers can retract their testicles."

I now call two chaps into the Witness box as further ammunition for my defence:

1) Mads Mikkelsen from Hannibal.



Here, I think the Windsor knot is a perfect foil for this outfit. It works well with the cut-away collar and echoes the V line created by those fabulous wide, plunging, pointed peak lapels.

2) Patrick McNee from the Avengers



One of my true style heroes. Immaculate, dandified but certainly not brash. Everything has been considered and laundered to perfection. The starched shirt-collar, vest, lapels and tie all work together in perfect harmony, creating razor sharp lines. Here is a man for whom a wonky knot simply wouldn't do.

Being realistic, both the four-in-hand and half-Windsor knots each have their own merits, and neither would disgrace a Michelsberg bespoke shirt and suit.

To me, choice depends less on size and proportion and is more about your character and how you wish to be seen by others.

If you are a regular reader of GQ, the Rake Magazine and participate in various online style forums, there is a widely held belief that the four-in-hand is the Gentleman's knot of choice.

They argue that because it is imperfect and slightly askew, it creates are more free-spirited, laid back impression and is more unconventional.

A man, frequently lauded by the above is Gianni Agnelli, the "Rake of the Riviera."



Here was one seriously debonair dude. A bon viveur and lover of Caraceni bespoke suits he epitomised what the Italians call "sprezzatura" - defined by the Oxford English Dictionary as "studied carelessness".

Effortlessly chic, too cool for school, to me, this is the heart and soul of Italian dressing.

Creating an air of apparent modesty and nonchalance, and living with your Mother to be able to afford it :-)

Knitted ties aside, I'll always be more of a Steed than an Agnelli, but don't let that polished exterior fool you.

Behind that velvet top collar and Whangee umbrella, lies a mischievous heart and a disgraceful sense of humour.

Ciao for now and here's wishing you all a wonderful start to 2015.

Running the gauntlet

I've just finished Ranulph Fiennes's autobiography, "Mad, Bad and Dangerous to Know."

His 'why can't I?' approach to life is uplifting and truly inspirational. He too had his heroes, and in life, I believe you need people (and their work) to look up to and emulate.

Inspiration comes in many ways. As far as tailoring and style go, for me it's the likes of Sir Paul Smith, Chittleborough & Morgan, Ralph Lauren, Mark Powell, Ermenegildo Zegna, Cifonelli and Attolini who drive me on to do better and achieve more.

When sitting down with a customer for the first time, often is the case they haven't got a clue what they want. Then it's all about listening, probing, connecting, getting on a level and building trust and rapport.

Understanding what will work for any given customer is not something that can be taught. Good taste is born in your DNA and there's no substitute for experience.

Naturally, I have my own sense of style and know what I love, but the many hours I've spent, pouring over other tailors work (past and present), is a treasure trove to be plundered with relish.

Style icons are often another source of inspiration for my customers, and that was certainly the case when making a tuxedo for my friend (and Bond geek) Mr Paul Dunphy.

What man doesn't grin inside, when Mr Connery light's up his cigarette in Dr No and utters those immortal words, "The name's bond. James Bond."



In my opinion, the one button shawl lapel cannot be beaten and here is what we came up with.



One of the details that we included were "Gauntlet Cuffs" and these are highlighted in the picture below.



A first for Michelsberg Tailoring, I feel they are worthy of some debate. Whilst I'm a fan, detractors liken them to a circumcised sleeve.

The "Gauntlet's" history goes back to medieval days as a metal plated glove used to protect a Knights sword hand.

Thrown down to signify a duel, it's got a whiff of "Game of Thrones" about it, perhaps striking a cord with today's immoral, wine-drinking, wench-biffing, wannabee from The House of Lannister.

The first time I came across them was in the work of Soho based tailor, Mark Powell. As far as his threads are concerned, I'm a big fan. Tailor to The Krays, The Stones and other men of disrepute, his clothes are flamboyant, edgy and not afraid to turn heads.

Whether a gauntlet cuff will work or not, in my opinion, depends on the fabric and the style of the rest of the suit, and of course the wearer who needs confidence to pull it off.

Like a storm collar, I feel it works very well with Tweed, as can be seen in the picture below of a suit cut by Steven Hitchcock of Anderson & Sheppard.



Also, a perfect foil to a classic tuxedo, or smoking jacket, it was very much a feature of Edwardian dress and smacks of days done by. This, I feel needs to be reflected when designing the rest of the garment.

As far as a lounge suit goes, I'd have wide, pointed peak lapels, a longer length coat, exaggerated skirt and one button to fasten.

There'd probably be a velvet / silk contrasting collar and pocket jets, high-waisted trousers with wider legs and a beautiful pair of shoes by Gaziano & Girling.

The image below is on the right lines and is what I am talking about earlier. Finding something that strikes a cord and twisting and tweaking it to make it your own.



Here's a final shot of Gordon Gekko incorporating what just might be the signature cuff of a man who is mad, bad
and dangerous to know.



Whist both Sir Ran and I might not agree with his notion that "Greed is Good," you don't get anywhere in life without hard graft, so there just might be a grain of truth in his maxim that "lunch is for wimps."

Feeling Horny.

My Grandma, Edith, used to come out with some wonderful phrases:

"She's all teeth and temptation," was one of my favourites, as was, "don't spoil the ship for a ha'p'orth of tar."

The former young filly, is often encountered by a chap, resplendent in a Michelsberg bespoke suit. The latter, is my call to arms when making it.

When it comes to tailoring, the devil is very much in the detail, and economising on trivial things is dangerous ground. It's all very well selecting a beautiful cloth and lining, but just as important are the use of quality trimmings.

Decent canvas, shoulder pads, pocket bags, thread, zips, will all help to ensure a long and happy life for your bespoke garment.

As far as trimmings go, I'm a big fan of Richard James Weldon, one of the oldest trimming merchants in Britain, who have supplied the trade since 1826. Sourcing top-end silk facings (used to make the lapels) for dinner suits isn't easy and these guys have a lovely selection.

Another of my firm favourites is Bernstein & Banleys.

Based in Southend-on-Sea, I've done business with them for years, but it wasn't until a recent dinner at the Merchant Taylors Hall in London, that I actually met with one of their tribe.

Here is Peter Lockwood, their Operations Manager, who, like myself, had sneaked off to the bar, during one of the less stimulating speeches...



In my opinion you just can't beat putting a face to a name / voice at the end of a phone. So even better, when one of their directors, Fran Bardhi, took a deep breath and made the journey North of Watford gap to come and show me his wares.



Without doubt, one of the most important things to me, from a visual perspective, is using beautiful buttons. They are in many ways the alloy wheels of a bespoke suit and can make it, or, break it.

Done right, they are the perfect foil to a prestige marque that oozes style and sophistication. Go wrong and you've got a twat-mobile with go-faster stripes, spoilers, and a bangin' bass booster.

There's something about the feel of a plastic / polyester button that leaves me cold.

Not so, when you have a nugget of buffalo, or, ox-horn in your hand. It's warm and weighty. You can almost smell the rolling meadows and hear the thunder of hoofs, as you caress the notches endured over a thousand ruttings.

James Grove and Sons, based in the West Midlands, were one of the world's largest horn button manufacturers, but sadly ceased trading at the end of 2012.

Bernstein and Banley acquired their entire stock, and for me, are de rigueur when the suit is ready for 'finishing.'

Here's Judy, in 'button-corner' of the workroom, selecting the brown horn-buttons for my apprentice Charlie's first bespoke suit, made-up in a fawn wool worsted fabric, by Hardy Minnis of Savile Row.



Whilst horn buttons will work with many fabrics, there are of course exceptions.

I'm currently making a suit, in baby-blue cloth by Scabal, for a wedding in Skiathos and have decided to use Mother of Pearl buttons. The pink and green hues will sparkle in the sunshine and provide a nod to the creamy silk lining that lies underneath.

For a razor sharp black cocktail suit, in silky Halstead Super 120's, we've gone for Smoked Mother of Pearl buttons with a gunmetal grey lining.

When it comes to dinner suits, or a mod inspired Tonic Mohair suit, we make our own silk / cloth-covered buttons using the machine below.



As I've always said, making a bespoke suit requires team-work and is a genuine collaboration between the customer and myself.

Whilst I will always make my own suggestions, often is the case we use buttons sourced by my customers.

They've come from 'Duttons for Buttons,' a flea-market in Paris, a vintage garment they already own, to something (a silver Yorkshire rose) that they just want to use as the last cuff button.

The amount of time and energy that can go into making a bespoke suit is incredible, and it is finishing touches like these that can turn a garment into something sentimental and highly personable.

As far as Charlie goes, he's made-up with his new threads (pictured below) and who can blame him. Getting the horn is all part of the territory for a thrusting twenty one year old.

It's not a party without Charlie..

On Monday September the 8th, my new apprentice, Charlie Anderson, pushed the Michelsberg Tailoring buzzer, and climbed the stairs towards sartorial heaven for the first time.

Whilst it's early days, the lad's done well, enthusiasm dripping from each of his twenty-one year old pores.

He's shown initiative, has boundless energy and has already started to get to grips with the tape-measure, chalk and pins.

Most pleasing is his eye. Spotting a 'drop shoulder' is all very well, but it's getting those little things right, like the button position, width of lapel, depth of pocket flap, that makes all the difference.

You can't teach someone good taste, and apart from a frightening penchant for elbow patches and coloured shoe laces, we're pretty much on the same level.

I've also enjoyed the banter. He's ripped into me about my small feet. I just laugh at his incredibly prominent seat.

On Thursday of that week we threw a party to celebrate his arrival.

A four piece New Orleans Jazz Band led by Jim Wright let it rip, as family, friends, customers, suppliers, and my fellow Victoria Quarter tenants hammered the Michelsberg bar and raised a glass to the new kid.

Big respect must go to Charlie's ex-boss David, who made it all the way up from London to show his support.

My spies tell me that he was the leader of the after party shenanigans at Smokestack, setting up the sambuca shots until well after two in the morning.

Finally, a doff of the cap to Paul at Westmount Wines for the fabulous fizz, and a mighty hurrah! for Bruce at Salt's Delicatessen for the wonderful Yorkshire-sized canapés.

Using the considerable talents of my friend Christopher Thompson at Lightsmith Visuals we've put together a short video of the party and the link for viewing is here.

Enjoy!

Short tempered

The one crumb of comfort I'll take from the end of Summer, is no more encounters like this one in Leeds.



As he swaggered past me, rapping "A'm rollin' wi mi backie..." I didn't know whether to laugh, or, cry.

Sunshine can bring with it a multitude of sins, and last week, on my way down to Newquay, my retinas were once again subjected to more horrors of the flesh.



When it comes to shorts, my viewpoint from a sartorial perspective is unwavering. They are ugly, unsophisticated and I will not make them.

Even Ralph Lauren, who I admire considerably, is unable to promote them with aplomb. Check out his advert below.



What on earth is going on here? Wayward boaters, hunting a lost canoe on the streets of Milan, assisted by hippy chicks and a handy spin-bowler?

A company who I do feel deserves a mention is Orlebar Brown and their "tailored swim shorts." Often featuring outlandish designs, they've cunningly added a metal buckle and side fastener onto the waistband, which I do like.



All they need to do is incorporate a removable colostomy bag, for when you hand over two hundred and forty five pounds to pay for them.

No matter how toned of calf, or, bronzed of flesh a chap might be, I will always give shorts a resounding no. Their only place is the beach, the sports-field, or the school playground.

I can hear the cry's of "poppycock" from those of you who wallow in a climate more favourable than my own.

Trust me. Shorts are God's way of having a little joke with those of you who think heat is an excuse to lower the tone.

Last month, it hit eighty degrees in my showroom and I still wore a tie, vest and leather shoes. God save the Queen!

A pair of linen, cotton, seersucker, mohair, trousers, will always look great and keep you cool. Whilst I like the skinny bottom, flash of ankle vibe, I feel these (spotted on my travels) are a tad on the short side.



Anyway, now that you've let me have my rant, I'm feeling much better and so on to more positive things.

It's been a great month here at Michelsberg HQ. Business has been brisk and I've fitted out an office / new kitchen above the showroom, in preparation for my new apprentice, Charlie, who starts early next month.

As a celebration, I am hosting a customer party on Thursday, September 11th from 6pm (in the Victoria Quarter), so you can help me raise a glass and welcome him into our tribe.

There will be live jazz, canapés from Salt's deli and a disgraceful amount of alcohol.

Dress Code will be Michelsberg Tailoring. No Shorts.

Hope to see you soon and remember, now is the time to get in those orders for pre-Christmas dinner suits and overcoats :-)

À bientôt mes amis!

Tennis, trofie and tailors

It's 4.30pm on a Friday afternoon in Leeds.

Blue sky, twenty seven degrees, and a white-wine and Peroni soaked crowd of suits, are wallowing on the sun-drenched pavement outside the Bar & Grill.

Now is the time of the year to kick back and suck the marrow out of every bone Mother Nature throws at us.

Earlier this month, I decided to take a cheeky day off, and my wife and I headed down to Wimbledon for the tennis.

With yet another glorious day on the cards, and wanting to look the part, my first port of call was to my favourite hatters Lock and Co on St James's street, to treat myself to a Panama hat.

Armed with my new head candy, we jumped on a bus and crawled along the streets of gold to the grass lawns of the All-England club.

To be honest, tennis isn't really my game. The highlight for me was the nimble footed lineswoman who, a dead ringer for Miss Marple, was a magnet for an extremely powerful Russian's serve.

Watching the old dear, busting shapes to avoid getting clattered by a tennis ball, reduced me to a giggling wreck.

After three hours of play, I'd had enough. My long-suffering wife, Nikki, agreed we could up sticks and head to Mayfair, where there just happened to be a couple of tailors I wanted to visit...

First stop was Spencer Hart's new flagship store on Brook Street. Here I am with Moaz, one of their Sales Associates.



He's the one in the black suit. Not the Michael Winner look-a-like showing more chest hair than Simon Cowell.

Ten years ago, I visited their shop on Savile Row and met Nick Hart, the founder.

For someone just starting out in the trade, it was pretty inspirational stuff. Dark wood, soft jazz music, razor sharp threads on the wall. The place had soul, a real edge to it.

Since then, they've gone from strength to strength, building their brand and launching successful ready-to-wear and made-to-measure collections. They now have a truly international presence, dressing numerous high-profile celebrities.

In a past life, the new shop was a bank, and Moaz was kind enough to let me check out "The Vault," their underground, luxury personal shopping suite.

Whilst upstairs is "L.A" bright and beautiful, the darker side of Spencer Hart was once again revealed.

Very much a Bond villains lair, you'd be very happy to chill on the leather banquet and select a vintage Rolex, or, commission a bespoke pair of velvet slippers.



Next on the radar was Thom Sweeney.

Based on Weighhouse Street, these guys are currently making a real name for themselves and deservedly so.

The two founders, Thom Widdett and Luke Sweeney, used to work for Timothy Everest before sailing off on their own ship.

I met with Thom and Matthew Gonzales, one of his junior cutters, on a recent trip overseas and it was clear to me then that these guys have style and ambition in abundance.

Their signature dish is the "Horse-shoe" vest, served with a side order of old-school glamour. They've also recently launched a ready-to-wear line and I have no doubt we'll be hearing much more from them in the near future.

Matthew was in their basement workrooms when I arrived and gave me the grand tour. Their shop was fabulous. It oozed with charm and character and like the chaps themselves, impeccably attired.

Judging by the pile of re-cuts he had to do, business is brisk for them at the moment!

After that, it was time for cocktails.

Heading down Bond Street towards Soho, we passed Sotheby's, the auction house. Directly outside was a crowd of photographers and a sign in the window: "Impressionist & Modern Art Evening Sale."

One of my customers, Paddy, works for them at a senior level and so, seizing the day, I wandered across to the doorman (dressed in full morning suit and top hat) and enquired as to whether he was in attendance.

He popped inside to find out. Moments later, a frightfully British chap, who introduced himself as Harry, bustled through the door. We were greeted like long lost friends and swept inside.

After eight years in tailoring I can spot a five grand suit at twenty paces and this place was rammed to the gills with them.

The rarefied atmosphere buzzed with expectation. The art-strewn walls, a shimmering backdrop, to this cultured oasis for the wealthy, privileged, and beautiful.

It turned out Paddy had just left, but Harry ushered us into the sale room and proceeded to give us the lowdown on paintings by Monet, Picasso, Renoir and Mondrian.

The collection raised just over one hundred and twenty million pounds. Not a bad little earner for a Monday night's work.

I later found out that Harry was in fact, Lord Harry Dalmeny, Deputy Chairman of Sotheby's. It's not often I'm given a private tour of art-work by a member of the peerage. Surreal.

We were 'papped' as we left the building (hilarious) and the best was yet to come. Dinner at Bocca Di Lupo.

If there are three words you must remember from this post, these are it. Utterly, totally and unequivocally the best Italian food I have eaten in this country.

The courgette flowers filled with mozzarella and anchovy were boules of joy. The roast suckling pig with grapes, white wine and bay, so unctuously magnificent, I felt bereaved when it came to an end.

London really is, a truly special place. Wonderful things can, and will happen for you there, if you have the desire to seek them out.

Fine threads, good food and a smidge of culture are always on my hit list, and as usual our wonderful capital city delivered.

The Apprentice

On Friday the 13th of this month at 5pm, Michelsberg Tailoring popped open a bottle of Veuve Clicquot and raised a glass to its first employee, Charlie Anderson.

Eight years ago, the business was born on my kitchen table, and now, after three years in the Victoria Quarter, I feel ready to take on an apprentice.

Here he is, signing his employment contract.



Currently a salesman at Jeffery West shoes, he first impressed me when I urgently needed a pair of dress shoes for a black-tie event.

They didn't have my size in the Leeds store, so he hunted a pair down on the phone, arranged for them to be couriered up from London (the same day), and was on my doorstep first thing the next morning, waiting for me to try them on.

To me, service is everything and here was someone practising what I preach.

Charlie got his sale, Jeffery West made a few quid, and my new patent-leather Jeffries got to dominate the dance-floor of the Hunt Ball that evening.

Here is a picture of me on the night with my good friend Toby, wearing his new Michelsberg midnight blue mohair tuxedo with velvet shawl collar, and my beautiful wife, Nikki :-)



Charlie starts on Monday the 8th September and it's a big step for us both.

Once under the Michelsberg wing, he is going to learn what I passionately believe is the greatest job on earth - running a bespoke tailoring business.

He's ambitious, bright, has some 'fire in the belly' and loves clothes. My gut feeling is that here is a young man who wants to be one of life's winners and I'm going to do everything I can to help him achieve his goals.

As far as my business goes, I genuinely feel like I'm just getting started. I've got a good base to build from and have a dream of how I want things to look in the future.

To achieve that I need to find the right people whom I can trust.

Whilst I'm not afraid of taking risks, it's my family name above the door, and with that comes a responsibility to maintain what I hope is a spotless reputation.

In Charlie I am confident I have found someone with broad enough shoulders to carry such a mighty burden!

I will be hosting a customer party shortly after he starts in the hope you will find the time to help me welcome the new kid into our gang.

For Charlie and I, a new chapter begins and it's going to be a Brave New World for us both. Success can never be guaranteed but failure is not an option.

You've gotta pick a pocket or two boys

As a tailor, I get a real kick out of making something for a special occasion.

A wedding, or, red-carpet movie premiere is a huge deal and so the pressure of delivering something perfect, on time, is palpable.

A sharply cut suit can make you feel taller, sexier, powerful and more confident. Providing the armour to help my customer 'own it' at that key moment in their life is a very rewarding experience.

Whilst it's great to do those 'one-offs,' clothes are a basic part of our lives and should be used to make it easier, both at work and play.

In short, they need to be functional, as well as look good.

It is my dream that every man will treat his 'Michelsberg' with the utmost care and respect. After a day turning heads, it should be lovingly brushed by hand, the coat placed on a broad wooden hangar and the trousers put to bed in a warm, top-of-the range, trouser press.

The cruel hard truth is that more often than not, they are used and abused, chucked about, soaked in rain (and wine) and battered by the rigours of a working life.

Living in airports and hotel rooms for days on end, or, charging down to London and back with a lap-top bag over the shoulder, can really take its toll on a man's threads.

Selection of cloth is critical. The fabric needs to be durable and shed creases easily. Whilst a heavier weight of fabric (11 ounces and above) will undoubtedly perform better, the downside is that it will feel hotter to wear. Not so good if you are in Dubai, it's 80% humidity and you've run out of Right Guard.

I find that lighter weight wool / mohair blends work well in hot climates, as mohair is a durable, stiffer fibre with great insulating properties.

It feels quite hard and springy to the touch, and so bounces back when crumpled-up, and usually has a more open weave which allows heat and moisture to escape more easily.

Mohair does have a wonderful sheen, or 'lustre' to it, but some of my customers like a more matt finish. In this case, a lightweight wool cloth woven using a highly twisted worsted yarn will also have bounce and perform just as well.

The next thing to discuss when creating a 'work horse' is the saddle-bags, or, dreaded P word. Pockets.

Not the ones on the outside of the coat. Far from it. They are a tailors friend. Pleasing to the eye, they can make a wonderful design feature, and provide an attractive break in the cloth without ruining the line, particularly useful if a customer is very tall.

I believe that slanted pockets make you look slimmer, and the addition of a 'ticket-pocket' (the smaller extra one above the side pocket on the right-hand-side) narrows the waistline, as it draws the eye to the slimmest part of a chaps body.



The 'out-breast-welt' (the one on the left-hand-side of your chest) is more that just a place to pop your Bond-like hanky. Slightly angled, it helps to create that sought after 'V' line to the body and visually adds width across the chest.

Outside pockets are a thing of beauty, the golden child to the black sheep of the family that lurks beneath - the inside pockets.

Throughout the fitting stage on a new suit, we go to great lengths to achieve a sinewy silhouette with the correct 'balance.' I find nothing more pleasing than a coat that hugs the body, and when unbuttoned, hangs perfectly level, yet still retains it's shape.

So, when a bulging wallet, smartphone, or diary, is added to the mix, it makes the tailoring gods weep.

Yes, I can feel their tears raining down upon me as coins, pens, sunglasses, crumpled tissues and fag packets find accommodation in the house of beauty that is a Bespoke Suit.

At work, I use a briefcase for my stuff. At play, it all goes in my wife's bag (with her carrying it I should hasten to add!). But that's just me and my slightly OCD tendencies.

Most of my customers insist on having inside pockets, and so I'll dig deep, re-enforce them and do the forward fitting with their clobber inside. This means that when the coat is finished and the button fastened, it won't feel too tight.

Tailoring a coat around the tools of a man's trade is fair enough, but even I was gobsmacked when I was asked to accommodate a kevlar body vest for a security professional. No curved lines with that one.

The only inside pockets that bring a smile to my face are "secret" pockets. Hidden away, perhaps in a jacket lining, they are the perfect place to sneak one's 'stash.'



Whilst a safe-haven for a bag of weed, or, packet of Mr Blobbies might be useful to some, here at Michelsberg Tailoring we naturally frown upon drug-taking and sexual frivolity at any level.

In all seriousness, a hidden cash-pocket in the waistband of the trousers can be invaluable at the races. A day of high jinx, based on alcohol consumption and hard-currency, is a pick-pockets wet dream, so hiding your queens-folding down the front of your strides makes it harder for them. Ahem..



'Hare' pockets are also quite popular amongst my customers. A poachers delight, they usually feature in shooting suits, have a water-proof lining and provide a temporary home for a bunny who gets on the wrong side of a 12 bore shotgun.

I mainly use them in overcoats and tweed jackets, as the weight of the cloth (and construction beneath) will support what is a perfect place to pop a scarf, newspaper, or, hip flask.



Yes, every customer has their foibles. Some are dandies, with jackets made-up in luxurious fabrics, fitted to within an inch of their life.

Others, who sit at a desk all day, consider a bespoke suit their overalls, and want something made of tougher stuff, fitted on the looser side.

In a perfect world, none of us would have to work. We'd surf in the morning, be dressed by our valets in a Super 150's Escorial Suit, have lunch with friends and then retire to the yacht, fire up the jacuzzi and settle down for a gentle evening under the stars.

For most of us, we are out there earning a crust, and as such, not all our suits can be stallions.

A good old cart-horse might not be built for speed but will happily plod away for years, with enough room on board for the metaphoric kitchen sink.

Every Cloud...

"Beauty is only skin deep, it's what's underneath that counts."

Wise words, particularly when it comes to bespoke suits. A beautiful cloth on the surface is nothing without quality scaffolding underneath.

I've mentioned in a previous blog about the construction of our suits, both the "British Bespoke" (half canvas) and "Uber-Level" (full canvas).



They incorporate a number of layers, or, interlinings, (body canvas, chest canvas, domette, fusing) which are sewn together by hand, or, machined, to give the cloth shape and create a soft armour with which to flatter the wearer's body.

The final layer is, of course, the lining and it is here that a garment can be "made or broken".

A beautifully cut, three piece suit, made-up in a stunning Escorial cloth from John Fosters, will be destroyed in a flash, by pairing it with a lining that is the visual manifestation of dropping an acid tab in Lady Gaga's wardrobe.

Whilst having a suit made should be fun, getting it right is a serious business.

Many a chap in the wicked world of work often feels the need to conform. Subtle navy blue, or, charcoal grey cloths, in classic understated designs are often de rigueur.

The lining, however, is a wonderful way to express oneself, and the choice is extensive.

My bunches contain pretty much every pantone available, and as well as plains and two tones, I have a range of designs including skull & crossbones, paisleys, stripes, flowers, "make love not war" slogans and even naughty ladies (remember Sam Fox?) bearing their charms.



My own opinion is that whilst it might be tempting to go absolutely mental, a little restraint will keep you on the right side of elegant, rather than come across as tacky, vulgar, or, brash.

A safe option is to go for the same tone as the cloth, but in a lighter shade. It tends to 'lift' the ensemble and reduces the risk of any clash with shirts and ties in contrasting colours.

This is particularly apparent if the suit includes a vest, the back of which is on full display when the coat comes off.

A silver lining with a grey cloth works rather well, as does a metallic blue lining with navy.



If it's a contrasting colour to the cloth you're looking for, then a deep burgundy, British racing green, or, navy blue lining will add an understated and refined air to the proceedings. These are particularly popular amongst my customers who adopt a "less is more" attitude to their dress.

Whilst I salute this school of thought, a touch of swagger and turning heads is what Michelsberg Tailoring is about.

I love to use a pillar-box red lining against a charcoal grey or black cloth. It's dark, dashing, with a sniff of Count Dracula about it.



Blue fabrics look fabulous with a flamboyant gold lining and pink is another firm favourite - it's cheerful, a little eccentric yet still sophisticated.



Whatever the choice, I insist on only using the best. It's a firm no to synthetic linings made from man made fibres, like polyester and nylon, and a big yes to Cupro Bemberg.

"Bemberg" is the registered trade name for Cupro Rayon, made by Asahi Kasei in Japan. It's derived from natural fibres (the linters of the cotton plant) and ticks all the boxes in terms of breathability, performance and the environment.

Some tailors will fight the corner for using silk linings. I've visited various tailoring forums and the consensus is that whilst silk has a certain mystique, Bemberg outperforms silk in terms of breathability (it has a higher water absorption rate than silk), durability and still looks fantastic.

Other important things to bear in mind when choosing your lining are the weight and weave of the cloth.

A lightweight (8oz / 220-240gm) cloth demands a lightweight lining. If it's too heavy, there is a real danger it will 'drag' on the cloth when made-up, resulting in unsightly bulges and ripples.

As far as weave goes, certain travel cloths, particularly those blended with Summer Kid Mohair, tend to have a more open weave. This is great when it comes to breathability but there is a danger a cream / white, or, vividly coloured lining will show through (particularly on the sleeves).

Picking out a lining can often take as long as choosing the cloth.

If it's a wedding suit, finding something that pleases the groom AND goes with the colour scheme of the day, is not always easy.

A betrothed couple recently came to see me. The bride-to-be wanted Dusky Pink and her beau wanted Easyjet Orange. Neither would back down. Heels dug in, eyes flashed, arms were folded and the dreaded "darling" word came into play.

Result - a Mexican stand off.



It took all my powers of diplomacy to defuse the situation and luckily I came up with a "win / win" option. Should my business ever go to the wall, a career as a marriage guidance councillor is possibly an option.

When all's said an done, the beauty of having a suit made is that ultimately you get what you want.

I've given my two pennies worth, but when it comes to what lies beneath a jacket, one man's orange in another man's purple.

"Less is more" and "dapper and dashing" are all very well, but if Sam Fox's nipple is what you want close to your heart, then fill your boots.

The Emperor's New Clothes

Even as a child, I loved getting new clothes.

The joy of wearing my first Nike t-shirt and trainers on a geography field trip to Skipton, is still tucked away in the little grey cells.

As is busting shapes on the dance-floor at 'Mr Craig's' nightclub in Bradford, resplendent in blue blazer, chinos, and brown suede shoes.

Memories of the happiest moments of my life are intrinsically linked to the clothes I was wearing on my back.

Having just turned forty one, I sit back misty-eyed and remember getting smashed at a college ball in London, feeling very much the dandy in a white tuxedo and black silk cummerbund from Austin Reed.

Whilst my capacity to bounce back from alcohol abuse has since diminished, the rush I get from slipping new clobber on my back has not.

When it comes to fine threads, the law of diminishing returns does not apply.

Under the poor excuse of needing new imagery for my website, I've just taken delivery of three new additions to the Michelsberg Wardrobe.

The first is this purple velvet jacket.



You should have seen my face as I popped it on for the first time at the coat-makers. One of the grey haired machinists had observed my reaction and turned to her colleague and said "ah, bless."

It strikes at the very heart of what Michelsberg Tailoring is all about. Glamour. Self indulgence. Sophisticated revelry.

It's a nod to the King of peak lapels that is Tom Ford, whom I consider to be one of the best dressed men on the planet.

A jacket like this was born for good times ahead. Champagne, silk dresses, white Alba truffle. A black tie ball. Day break on the streets of Rome. Laughter.

Slipping on a new bespoke coat for the first time is one of life's great pleasures.

A customer recently asked me, "what's the favourite part of your job?" and without hesitation I replied, "delivering the finished garment"

Having a suit made is an experience. It's a true journey and requires a leap of faith based on a figment of the imagination.

An idea born over a cup of tea, or glass of whiskey, evolves across several fittings into what is known in the trade as 'a finisher.'

This is the moment of truth. Like a matador brandishing his cape, the garment is wielded onto the customer's back with a flourish.

My heart thumps, snakes swirl in the stomach, eyes dart across the surface of the cloth, hunting for tailoring gremlins.

And then, the customer grins.

It's a bit like the moment in Frankenstein when the professor cry's out to the heavens, "She's Alive! Alive!!

We've nailed it. I'll often feel a tingle down my spine, as waves of adrenalin carry mixed emotions of elation and relief.

My customer is thrilled and that's what it's all about. A shared moment of delight. Back of the net!

But it's the initial meeting that lays the foundations for a successful outcome.

Every customer that comes through my door has their own ideas and sense of style. It's very much a learning process for us both as we sit down and let the creative juices flow in search of a shared vision.

Over the last eight years, I've made getting on for two thousand garments, and it's been new ideas from my customers that have kept things fresh and shaped my own personal style.

The inspiration for a new set of threads comes from many places. Attending a menswear show like Pitti Uomo, watching an old black and white movie like 'Kind Hearts and Coronets', a stroll down Savile Row.

It was the image below of the cutter Jo Morgan in the book "Bespoke. The Men's Style of Savile Row," that got my second treat to myself up and running.



Check out the lapel. Stunning. It's got attitude, a real sense of swagger but still manages to maintain an air of respectability and suaveness about it.

Here's what I came up with.



I've kept the bowed peak lapels (also currently embraced by Vivienne Westwood - another designer I greatly admire) but added a velvet top-collar and gone for slanted pockets.

The cloth's from Dugdale Brothers of Huddersfield and it's getting worn for this first time tomorrow morning - a great way to start off the week :-)

And last but not least is this little fella.



I've been scrawling it down (badly) on paper since a wee lad.

The cloth is a wonderful chalk-stripe flannel from Biella and there's a military vibe about it. It's been applauded and derided in equal measure.

But I love it and that's all that's important.

These clothes have been built for fun. My hope is that one day, I will be able look back through rheumy and even mistier eyes and know I've done them justice.

Let the good times roll.

Dining with Giants

On Wednesday 12th February at 6.30pm, I was formally announced into the inner sanctum of the Merchant Taylors Hall in the City of London.

Based at Number 30 Threadneedle Street, this has been home to The Livery Company of The Worshipful Company of Merchant Taylors’ since 1343, and tonight was their annual Benevolent Association Dinner.

As far as events go in the world of fine threads, this is the 'Big Kahuna', the 'Bomb-Diggy.' I'd kindly been invited by the cloth company Scabal to join their table.

With adrenalin and champagne surging through my veins, I stepped into a stunning oak-panelled room to be greeted by the great and the good of British textiles and tailoring. Weaving my way through some of the sharpest suits on the planet, I hooked up with my hosts.

Introducing Robert Oakes, roving ambassador of the North for Scabal, and the lovely Hazel Edmonds, who runs the office at their flagship store on Savile Row.



When it comes to service, these guys set the bar. Efficient, warm, and a genuine pleasure to deal with, they are a credit to what is arguably the most forward thinking and commercially minded cloth business in the world.

It was also great to meet and spend some time with their retail sales manager, Ricky Sahota.



No stranger to the joys of wielding a tape-measure, he, like myself, is on the sharp-end of things, and handles the made-to-measure side of the business.

Over a fabulous dinner, we traded war-stories, drank white wine, red wine, port, and commiserated on his 6.30am flight to their head office in Brussels the next morning. Ouch.

Seated next to me was Terry Brown, a former President of the Merchant Taylors Company.



With more than forty years service to Scabal, his loyalty is matched with a reputation for kindness and fair play.

One of the most well connected chaps on the Row, his tales of life in the rag-trade and on the 'Golden Mile' were an utter delight.

After dinner, our speaker was Nigel from "The Apprentice."



After that, it was time for a stiff drink at the bar and it was here that the party really got started.

Here I am with Paul from Huntsman, and Leon, bespoke trouser cutter at Anderson & Sheppard.



At the start of the evening, things were a little bit starchy and stilted. Hushed tones, polished shoes, an overriding sense of decorum.

Then in walks Paul in his white and pink John Travolta special. The room cheered, shoulders dropped and everyone eased-up. The world needs more people like Paul.



Here's Robert having a quaff with Emma Martin, coat-maker for Dege and Skinner. BBC's Young Tailor of the Year for 2012, she bubbled with enthusiasm for her trade.

That evening, positivity ruled the roost. It was wonderful to see the place crammed to the rafters with young, ambitious tailors. The future of British Tailoring is bright. And it likes a drink.

I crashed at 3am. Two Nurofen, a glass of water and four hours sleep later, my pink, bleary eyes cracked open to face another day. I wandered down to the river from my hotel in Monument and was faced with this.



London rocks. I jumped into a cab and headed to my spiritual home (after Croyde Bay in Devon), Savile Row. First stop was Number 13, Stowers Bespoke. Ray Stowers was on my table the previous night and had invited me to pop into his shop.





A relatively new addition to the Row, prior to this, they had offered their bespoke service via a concession at Liberty on Regent Street.

They are a young team, were great fun on the night and had also consumed their fair share of pain killers that morning.

Next up was one of my firm favourites, Chittleborough & Morgan, and a meeting with the living legend that is Joe Morgan.



Joe, along with Edward Sexton, were the talented hands behind the stunning suits of Tommy Nutter.

"Nutters" was the place to go in the seventies. They dressed all the big names (Elton, Jagger, The Beatles) and my very next suit (almost finished!) is a nod to their stunning work of days gone by.

I particularly liked this little number in their showroom.



Then it was next door to Number 12, Scabal, to check out their newly refurbished showroom.





Not bad eh? No wonder they have to charge such high prices for their schmutter! :-)

Here's Andrew Goldberg, their National Sales Manager. Softly spoken, a true gent, he's mad about cloth and used to run the Leeds operation of Gieves and Hawkes.



By now I was flagging. The hangover was winning the battle with Reckitt Benckiser's little helpers. I needed sustenance and fast.

So, off to Soho to meet my friend Flynny for lunch, but not before popping in to say hello to my 'old friend' Mark Powell, who I've mentioned recently in a previous blog.



The food at Yauatcha on Broadwick street was fabulous. Try their tea-smoked ribs. Incredible. And then it was off to Kings Cross and back to Yorkshire where all the civilised people live :-)

As my train left the thumping, pupping heart of Mother England, I had once again been inspired by a city that makes me want to do more and be better.

When it comes to threads, London is 'The Show' and I will not rest until 'Michelsberg' gets a place in the limelight.