Once I've met a client and taken his measurements and any figuration details (does he have a drop shoulder? square shoulders? forward shoulders? stand erect? / stooped? etc) the next stage is to sit down with one of my cutters.
Introducing Rodney, or to many in the trade, Rod "The Mod." He has been in the tailoring trade since 15 years old, is the proud owner of a 1966 Lambretta and whilst claiming he never battled on the beaches of Brighton, admits to being a regular at Kaiser Chief concerts and Elland Road...still sounds like a trouble-maker to me!
It is his job to cut from the cloth, all the component parts of a suit (jacket fronts, collar, sleeves, pocket flaps, belt loops, etc) that will be handed down to my tailors to be sewn together.
His starting point is based on two key measurements of the client - to cut the coat, the size of his chest and for the trousers, his seat. For each of these measurements, we have developed a "pattern" or "block" which is basically a collection of shapes (made of card), which are an outline of all the component parts of a jacket / pair of trousers which when sewn together will fit the average man.
These shapes are then spread out on the cloth, and rather than chalking round them, cutting them out and then sewing them together there and then (like in the case of "off-the-peg") they are crucially moved, manipulated and adjusted to create a bespoke pattern based on the specific measurements and figuration details of the individual.
The bespoke pattern is then chalked, cut out and loosely sewn or "basted" together to produce the skeleton of the garment (called a "try-on") which will then be placed on the client so I can perform the all important first fitting.
Here, the garment is pinned and marked to produce the desired silhouette. Perhaps a sleeve will be shortened a touch, the shoulders "chipped" (reduced), maybe taken in a little on the pocket seams to shape the coat closer into the chest and the fronts marked with chalk to indicate the position of the buttonholes.
The "try-on" is then taken apart or "ripped down" and the relevant parts are re-cut (and put back together) in the workrooms to reflect the changes I have made during the fitting.
I am delighted to say that I am learning how to do the re-cuts myself and the picture above is of me during my first lesson, under intense supervision I might add!
It is at least a 7 year apprenticeship to be a 'tailor' (4 years tailoring / 3 years cutting) and those who have been doing it for decades say they are still learning. Whilst I believe my strengths lie in running the business and an ability to advise clients on appropriate cloth and the style of garment that will suit their shape (and personality) best, this learning process is giving me a much better idea of how our garments are constructed, what in-lays are provided (so I know how much weight you can put on before we need to make you another suit!) and allow me to get into the nitty gritty when talking with my tailors and cutters.
Depending on the extent of adjustments required after the 1st fitting, the garment is then either made to a finished garment, or, a further "forward fitting" is provided. This is where everything is in place (both sleeves are in, all the internal canvases,or, fuseables, pads, linings are in situ) except the button holes and collar. Minor tweaks might then be made, and following this, the suit is ready to be given it's first outing!
And so to made-to-measure.
Whilst it would be unfair to start naming companies, the typical modus operandi is as follows - whilst some do take a number of measurements and figuration details, many companies have a number of "try-on" jackets which are placed on the customer until 'best fit' is achieved.
Changes to sleeve length, perhaps the length of the jacket and waist are noted and then the cloth and measurements are sent off to a factory where, based on these measurements the garment is cut out (often using a computer) and made to a straight finish.
Sometimes a 'mock baste' is used where they will sew some white stitching all over the outside of what is basically a finished coat to make it 'look the part' and then will put the button holes in if the client is happy.
On the up side, and like the Bespoke process, the client does get to choose the cloth, lining, style of the garment. If the person in the shop has been trained to measure well, has the gift of good taste, the experience to know what style will work best for the client and there is no breakdown in communication between point of sale and the workrooms, then a decent garment might well be produced.
My big concern is that the pattern itself is only tweaked on a very minor basis (it's a bit like buying an 'off-the-peg' garment and getting it altered by an alterations tailor) and as it is often cut by computer, will struggle to cope with a clients figuration and be able to ensure the stripes and checks on a jacket match-up.
Far worse, is that a proper fitting is not provided - I passionately believe this is vital and at the very core of bespoke as this is where those crucial adjustments are noted and made to get the fit and silhouette perfect.
Made-to-measure suits can cost well over £800, so how do we manage to provide our British Bespoke line at this price?
Well, I am not greedy, have superb links with local mills in Yorkshire and don't believe in expensive advertising campaigns. Just energy, enthusiasm for my trade, an honest approach and good people behind me. I am starting a menswear revolution and you are invited to join me!!
That said, our Uber Level suits start at £2000 for a two piece suit and many of the establishments on Savile Row will be charging four grand plus. There are good reasons for this.
The level of construction is different. On our British Bespoke line, we machine the button holes, rather than sew them by hand. We provide a fused interlining with a floating canvas chest piece, rather than full canvas fronts.
I still believe the quality is exceptional and offers incredible value for money, but our Uber Level, or, a suit made by some of the tailors on the Row will take up to 80hours to produce, whereas on the British Bespoke we have used methods to bring this time down.
Re "some" - I can reveal that some companies on the Row send work out overseas for hand sewing but with most of the old school establishments (whom I will mention in a later blog) it's all done in the UK. I will never name these people as good work is still ultimately produced - all I want to do is help you ask the right questions before you decide to part with your money.
